Usage:
START BY:
a. remove timing gear cover
b. remove flywheel housing
c. remove pistons and connecting rod assemblies
1. Turn the crankshaft until the "C" mark on the crankshaft drive gear is in alignment with the "C" mark on the camshaft drive gear as shown.
NOTE: The main bearing caps are installed with the part number toward the front of the engine. Each cap has a number on the front of the cap which is the same as the number on the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
2. Remove the three center main bearing caps (1).
3. Remove thrust bearings (2) from each side of the center crankshaft journal.
4. Remove bolt (3). Remove the oil pickup tube support strip and the clip from the cylinder block as a unit.
5. Install one of the flywheel bolts in the end of the crankshaft.
6. Fasten a nylon strap and a hoist on crankshaft (4) as shown.
7. Remove the two end caps.
| NOTICE |
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Be careful not to damage the crankshaft journals when the crankshaft is removed. |
8. Remove crankshaft (4) from the cylinder block. The weight of the crankshaft is 52 kg (115 lb.).
| NOTICE |
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If new main bearings are not to be installed during crankshaft installation, put identification marks on the original bearings as to their location in the engine. |
9. Remove the crankshaft main bearings from the cylinder block and from the main bearings caps.
10. Check the condition of the main bearings and crankshaft. Make reference to Guideline For Reusable Parts: Main And Connecting Rod Bearings, Form No. SEBF8009 and Visual Inspection Of Crankshafts, Form No. SEBF8043.
11. Use tooling (A), and remove the drive gear from the crankshaft.
Install Crankshaft And Gear
If the crankshaft journals and bores for the block and rods were measured at disassembly and found to be within specifications, no further checks are necessary. However, if the serviceman still wants to measure the bearing clearances, Plastigage is recommended. Lead wire, shim stock or use of a dial bore gauge can damage the bearing surface.
The serviceman must be very careful to use Plastigage correctly. The following points must be remembered:
...Make sure that the backs of the bearings and the bores are clean and dry.
...Make sure that the bearing locking tabs are properly seated in their slots.
...The crankshaft must be free of oil where the Plastigage touches it.
...If the main bearing clearances are checked with the engine upright or on its side, the crankshaft must be supported. Use a jack under an adjacent crankshaft counterweight and hold the crankshaft against the crown of the bearing. If the crankshaft is not supported, the weight of the crankshaft will cause incorrect readings.
... Put a piece of Plastigage on the crown of the bearing half that is in the cap. Do not allow the Plastigage to extend over the edge of the bearing.
... Install the bearing cap using the correct torque-turn specifications. Do not use an impact wrench. Be careful not to dislodge the bearing when the cap is installed.
...Do not turn the crankshaft with the Plastigage installed.
...Carefully remove the cap, but do not remove the Plastigage. Measure the width of the Plastigage while it is in the bearing cap or on the crankshaft journal. Do this by using the correct scale on the package. Record the measurements.
...Remove the Plastigage before installing the cap.
When using Plastigage, the readings can sometimes be unclear. For example, all parts of the Plastigage are not the same width. Measure the major widths to make sure that they are within the specification range. Also, experience has shown that when checking clearances tighter than 0.10 mm (.004") the readings may be low by 0.013 to 0.025 mm (.0005 to .0010"). Out-of-round journals can give faulty readings. Also, journal taper may be indicated when one end of the Plastigage is wider than the other.
For complete details concerning measuring bearing clearances, see Engine Bearings And Crankshafts, Form No. SEBD0531.
1. Heat the crankshaft drive gear to a maximum temperature of 315°C (600°F). Install drive gear (1) on the crankshaft with the "C" mark on the gear toward the pulley end of the crankshaft.
2. Clean the surfaces in the cylinder block for the main bearings. Install the upper main bearing halves (bearings with the oil hole) in the cylinder block.
NOTE: Install the main bearings dry when the clearance checks are made. Put clean oil on the main bearings only for final assembly.
3. Fasten a nylon strap and a hoist on crankshaft (2), and put it in position in the cylinder block with the "C" marks on the camshaft drive gear and crankshaft drive gear in alignment.
4. Install a thrust plate (4) on each side of the No. 3 main bearing saddle. Put the side of the thrust plate which has the identification mark "BLOCK SIDE" toward the bearing saddle and the side with the oil grooves toward the crankshaft.
5. Put the clip and oil pickup tube support strip in position on the cylinder block as a unit, and install bolt (3) that holds them in place.
| NOTICE |
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Be sure the tabs on the back side of the main bearings fit in the grooves of the main bearing caps and cylinder block. |
6. Clean the surfaces of the main bearing caps for the main bearings. Install the lower main bearing halves in the main bearing caps.
7. If necessary, check the main bearing clearance with Plastigage (A). Install the Plastigage between the crankshaft and the main bearing.
| NOTICE |
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When the bearing caps are installed, make sure the caps are installed with the part number toward the front of the engine and the location number is the same as the number on the outside (camshaft side) of the engine block. Also, when using Plastigage to check bearing clearances, do not use an impact wrench to tighten the bearing cap bolts the additional 60° ± 5°. |
8. Put 2P2506 Thread Lubricant on the bolt threads and the contact surfaces of the bolt heads. Install the main bearing caps and bolts. Tighten the bolts on the side where the main bearing tabs are located, to a torque of 61 ± 6 N·m (45 ± 4 lb.ft.). Tighten the bolts on the opposite side to a torque of 61 ± 6 N·m (45 ± 4 lb.ft.). Put a mark on each bolt head and the bearing caps. Turn the bolts that are opposite the main bearing tabs an extra 60° ± 5° from the mark. Turn the bolts on the side where the main bearing tabs are located an extra 60° ± 5° from the mark. Remove main bearing caps (5), and measure the width of Plastigage (A) while it is in the bearing cap. This will determine the bearing clearance. The main bearing clearance with a new bearing must be 0.076 to 0.168 mm (.0030 to .0066 in.). Maximum permissible clearance with used main bearings is 0.18 mm (.007 in.).
9. Put 2P2506 Thread Lubricant on the bolt threads and the contact surface of the bolt heads. Put the main bearing caps in the same position on the cylinder block as they were when they were removed. Install the bolts, and tighten the bolts on the side where the main bearing tabs are located to a torque of 61 ± 6 N·m (45 ± 4 lb.ft.). Tighten the bolts on the opposite side to a torque of 61 ± 5 N·m (45 ± 4 lb.ft.). Put a mark on each bolt head and the bearing caps. Turn the bolts that are opposite the main bearing tabs an extra 60° ± 5° from the mark. Turn the bolts on the side where the main bearing tabs are located an extra 60° ± 5° from the mark.
10. Check the end play of the crankshaft with tool (B). Be sure the dial indicator is against a machined surface. The end play is controlled by the thrust bearings on each side of No. 3 (center) main bearing. The end play with new bearings must be 0.064 to 0.480 mm (.0025 to .0189 in.). The maximum permissible end play with used bearings is 0.64 mm (.025 in.). Make a replacement of the thrust bearings if needed.
END BY:
a. install pistons and connecting rod assemblies
b. install flywheel housing
c. install timing gear cover