DRUM REMOVAL Caterpillar

A. Drum Removal

1. Disconnect and plug hydraulic hoses on vibratory motor.

2. Remove the two bolts holding the vibratory motor in place and remove the vibratory motor.

3. Using a hoist (or other suitable lifting device), suspend the machine so weight is off shock mounts (two lower, one upper on each side of machine) yet the drum is still touching the ground.

4. Loosen and remove drum scrapers from machine frame.

5. Remove shock mount bolts, (A) shims (B) and shock mounts (C) (both sides).

6. Lift machine enough to roll drum out from under machine.

7. Block drum to prevent rolling.

B. Drum Disassembly

1. Remove grease line from drum mount.

2. Remove drum mounts (D).

3. Remove the vibratory coupling from the end of the weight shaft.

a. Insert a 12 point socket into the coupling.

b. Using a slow and even pressure, turn the puller bolt counter-clockwise to back the coupling off the weight shaft.

c. When turning out the puller bolt (A), the snap ring (B) may pop out leaving half of the coupling assembly on the weight shaft.

d. In this event, the retainer ring (E), o-ring (F), and splined hub (G) may be removed by hand after removing the puller bolt.

e. Reverse the splined hub (H) and reinsert in housing.

f. Replace the retainer ring (I) and snap ring (J).

g. Reverse the jaws on a sliding type puller hammer and insert into the coupling.

h. Pull on the splined hub until the coupling is free of the weight shaft.

4. Remove the motor mounting plate (K) located on the right side of the drum, by removing the mounting bolts (L). Remove bearing cover plate from left side.

5. Remove outer bearing spacer.

6. Remove the bearing retainer plate.

7. Remove hub.

a. Insert short length of 3" pipe into the hub so one end rests against the stub shaft.

b. Cover hole in motor mounting plate with a flat piece of steel.

c. Bolt the vibratory motor mounting plate to the hub using 43/8" x 21/2" bolts with washers.

d. Tighten bolts alternately until pipe insert pushes hub free.

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NOTICE
When using the vibratory motor mounting plate to remove the hub, use care to prevent damaging the mounting plate. If the mounting plate becomes damaged, it should be replaced. An alternative to using the mounting plate for hub removal is to manufacture a plate using the dimensions of the mounting plate for a pattern.

e. Once the hub is free of the stub shaft, remove the outer bearing half and the bearing races. A driver may have to be used to remove the race.

f. Remove the inner bearing spacer and oil ring from the stub shaft.

g. Using a suitable puller, remove the inner bearing from the stub shaft. If a puller is not available, use a torch to heat the inner bearing in two areas across from each other and remove with a screwdriver or pry bar.

8. Mark stub shaft and drum head (if roll pins (M) are not present) for reassembly.

9. Remove grease line from stub shaft and drum.

10. Remove the corks from the blind holes in the stub shaft (both sides).

11. Remove the Budd nuts from the stub shaft.

12. Place two 1" N.C. x 31/2" bolts in the holes from which the corks were removed.

13. Turn the bolts in alternately until the stub shaft begins to separate from the housing.

14. Once the stub shaft is free of the housing, lower the stub shaft to the floor with the inner side up.

15. Remove the bearing retainer plate.

16. Remove the weight bearing by using a suitable puller or driver.

NOTE: Run grease through the lube hole (N) to make certain it isn't blocked.

17. Remove weight shaft (0) using 6' and 3' pipes slipped over the shaft ends.

C. Drum Reassembly

1. Using a 6' and 3' length of pipe, insert weight shaft into drum. The end with the 6' shaft should enter drum first.

2. Using a slow circular motion, evenly heat the entire stub shaft flange with a torch to approximately 180° F. (82°C).

3. Slide the weight bearing into the stub shaft.

4. If the bearing doesn't seat a brass drift may be carefully used to tap the bearing into place. Only use the brass drift against bearing outer race.

5. Using new self locking bolts, bolt the bearing retainer plate into place. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs..

6. Tap the retainer plate with a brass drift to further seat the bearing. Recheck the torque on the bolts to make certain they are at 30 ft. lbs..

7. Remove pipe and use a hoist to position stub shaft and align bolt holes.

NOTE: If roll pins are not present, align mark on stub shaft with mark on drum head.

8. Once stub shaft is aligned, tighten budd nuts.

9. Replace stub shaft on other side of drum using steps 7 and 8.

10. Use a dial indicator to check that weight shaft end play is between .032 and .316 in. (.8 and 8.0 mm). Remove and or add shims as necessary for correct end play.

11. Reattach grease line to stub shaft and drum.

12. Using an oil bath or an oven, heat the bearing to 180°F. (83°C).

NOTE: If the methods mentioned above are not available, a torch may be used to heat the bearing. When using this method, the flame should be centered on a steel plate where the bearings sit. DO NOT place the flame directly on the bearing.

13. Slide the inner bearing half onto the stub shaft. (Before doing this, make certain the surface of the stub shaft is clean.)

14. Place the middle spacer onto the stub shaft next to the bearing.

15. Drive the two races with oil ring placed between the races into the hub using a flat board and a mallet.

a. Once the race is flush with the surface of the hub place the spacer against the race and using the flat board and mallet drive the race to the rim inside the hub. Remove the spacer.

16. Thoroughly grease hub slots on the stub shaft and position the hub on the stub shaft.

17. Heat the outer half of the tapered bearing, using the same procedure as was used on the inner bearing half, and slide onto the stub shaft.

18. Place the bearing spacer inside the hub.

19. Bolt the bearing retainer plate in place using new self locking bolts.

20. Tap the retainer plate with a brass drift to further seat the bearing. Torque the bolts to 35 ft. lbs..

21. Apply No. 2 Permatex to the hub arms where the motor mounting plate and the bearing cover will seat.

22. Bolt the motor mounting plate to the coupling side of the drum.

23. Bolt the bearing cover to the other side of the drum.

24. Once the motor mounting or the bearing plate are installed on the arm hub, attach a grease gun to the zerk and inject grease until it pushes out of the arm slots on the stub shaft.

25. Insert the key into the keyway of the coupling and align the keyway on the shaft with the key in the coupling.

Before placing the key in the keyway, make certain that the key is free of all burns and rough edges.

26. Using the puller bolt, draw the coupling onto the weight shaft until it is firmly seated. (Torque to about 78 ft. lbs.).

27. If the coupling was disassembled at removal, it must be reassembled by inserting the splined hub (A), a new o-ring (B), retainer ring (C), and snap ring (D).

NOTE: If there was a spacer present in the coupling at disassembly, it should be replaced in the coupling at reassembly.

NOTE: If the threads on the puller bolt were damaged during disassembly, the puller bolt should be replaced before the coupling is reassembled. This is a special bolt and should be replaced only with original part.

28. Reattach drum mounts (E) using budd nuts (F).

29. Reattach greaseline to drum mount.

D. Drum Replacement

1. Unblock drum and position under machine.

2. Lower machine until shock mount bolt holes on the machine are in line with bolt holes in drum mount (both sides).

3. Bolt shock mounts (G) and shock mount shims (H) in place (both sides).

4. Bolt vibratory motor to mounting plate and reattach hydraulic hoses.

5. Release machine from hoist.

6. Reattach scraper to machine frame.

a. On Rumblers with padded feet, tighten cleaning bars so they measure 1/4" from the drum.

b. On Rumblers with smooth drums, adjust scraper bars to 1/8" deflection.