Testing & Adjusting

Usage:

Introduction

NOTE: For Specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications for 3406C Industrial & Marine Engine Attachments, SENR6527. If the Specifications in SENR6527 are not the same as in the Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, look at the printing date on the cover of each book. Use the Specifications given in the book with the latest date.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting can be difficult. The Troubleshooting Problem List gives a list of possible problems. To make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that follow.

This list of problems, causes, and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible problem can be, and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed beyond the recommendations in the list.

Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part with other parts. This list is only a guide and cannot give all possible problems and corrections. The service personnel must find the problem and its source, then make the necessary repairs.

1. Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Does Not Activate Shutoff Solenoid.

2. Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Activates Shutoff Solenoid At Wrong Temperature.

3. Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure Fails To Activate Shutoff Solenoid.

4. Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Stop Engine.

5. Shutoff Solenoid Prevents Engine Start.

6. Clutch Will Not Engage (Slips), Heats Or Lever Moves To Released Position.

7. Clutch Shaft Has Too Much End Play.

8. Clutch Bearings Have Short Service Life.

9. Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure.

10. Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop Engine When Coolant Temperature Is Too High.

11. Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Let Engine Start

12. Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings.

13. Automatic Start/Stop Systems.

a: No Supply Of Standby Current-Lockout Light Activated (SR Relay Energized)

b: No Supply Of Standby Current-No Lockout Light Activated (SR Relay Not Energized)

c: Standby Current Supply Stops Before Normal Current Returns

d: Operation Of Standby System When Standby Current Is No Longer Needed

Problem 1: Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Does Not Activate Shutoff Solenoid

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Connect battery to Common Terminal (C) and shutoff solenoid to Normally Open (NO) connections. Check connections to other components or make installation of new wiring.

2. Failure Of Shutoff Solenoid

Check the shutoff solenoid.

3. Low Water Level In Cooling System

Fill the cooling system.

4. Wrong Setting Of Switch

Make a test of temperature setting and if necessary install new contactor switch with correct setting. See specifications.

Problem 2: Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Activates Shutoff Solenoid At Wrong Temperature

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Setting Of Switch

Make a test of temperature setting and if necessary install new contactor switch with correct setting. See specifications.

Problem 3: Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure Fails To Activates Shutoff Solenoid

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check connections, wiring and correct where necessary.

2. Wrong Setting Of Switch

Test contactor switch. If necessary, install new contactor switch.

Problem 4: Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Top Engine

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check connections and wiring.

2. Plunger Shaft Adjustment Wrong

Make adjustment to plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger In Shutoff Solenoid

Install the correct plunger shaft.

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel

Make adjustment to plunger shaft or replace solenoid if necessary.

Problem 5: Shutoff Solenoid Prevents Engine Start

Problem Cause:

1. Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Operate Correctly

Activate to shutoff or activate to run type: Operate the control for the shutoff solenoid. Listen for a noise. A shutoff solenoid makes noise when it works. If it makes noise but the engine still does not start, remove the shutoff solenoid. Try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the shutoff solenoid is either not installed correctly or is not functioning properly. Make reference to Testing & Adjusting.

Problem 6: Clutch Will Not Engage (Slips), Heats Or Lever Moves To Released Position

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Adjustment

Make adjustment to clutch engagement lever pull.

2. Alignment Of Flywheel And Flywheel Housing Mounting Face And Bores

Check and make adjustment to alignment.

3. Overload On Clutch

Reduce load or reduce engine speed when engaging clutch.

Problem 7: Clutch Shaft Has Too Much End Play

Problem Cause:

1. Bearing Worn Or Adjustment Wrong

Replace and/or make adjustment to shaft bearing.

Problem 8: Clutch Bearings Have Short Service Life

Problem Cause:

1. Too Much Bearing Clearance

Replace and/or make adjustment to shaft bearing.

2. Side Load Too High

Make a reduction of side load.

Problem 9: Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure

Problem Cause:

1. Plunger Is Held In Normal Run Position Or A Spring Is Broken

Disassemble and clean parts. Install new parts if needed.

Problem 10: Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop Engine When Coolant Temperature Is Too High

Problem Cause:

1. Oil Lines Have A Restriction

Clean oil lines, make replacements as necessary.

2. Control Valve Does Not Work Correctly

Clean control valve, make replacement if necessary.

3. Malfunction In Oil Pressure Shutoff

Clean oil pressure shutoff. Install new parts if necessary.

Problem 11: Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Let Engine Start

Problem Cause:

1. Control Has Not Been Set For Start

Set the control for start.

2. Spring Is Broken

Install new spring.

3. High Water Temperature

Let engine cool

Problem 12: Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check wiring connections to be sure they are correct.

2. Sending Units Have A Failure

Check the sending units and install new ones if necessary.

3. Resistor In 32 Volt Systems Has A Failure

Install a new resistor.

4. Wrong Sending Unit In System

Install correct sending unit.

5. Wrong Indicator

Install correct indicator.

Problem 13a: No Supply Of Standby Current-Lockout Light Activated (SR Relay Energized)

Problem Cause:

1. Engine Does Crank But Will Not Start-Engine Speed Correct

a. Engine starting problem

No fuel

Fuel rack not moving

Governor not operating

Wrong injection timing

Very low air temperature

Restriction in air inlet

Low compression

b. Switch problem

Water temperature switch has a failure

Overspeed switch setting is low or has a failure

Cranking panel problem

Overcranking timer has a failure

2. Engine Does Crank But Will Not Start-Cranking Speed Too Slow

a. Starting system problem

Battery does not have enough charge

Faulty cable connections

Starting motor has a failure

b. Engine problem

High friction due to seizure

c. Switch problem

Oil pressure switch has low setting

3. Engine Does Not Crank

a. Starting system problem

Open circuit or very high resistance in circuit to the magnetic switch

Magnetic switch has a failure

Circuit breaker has a failure

Problem 13b: No Supply Of Standby Current-No Lockout Light Activated (SR Relay Not Energized)

Problem Cause:

1. Engine Does Not Crank

a. Transfer switch problem

SE relay has a failure

Open circuit in initiating contactor circuit 1V, 2V and 3V contactor shorted

b. Cranking panel problem

Toggle switches SW-1 and SW-2 are in the wrong position or have a failure

NC contact of SE relay has a failure

IR relay open circuit

2. Engine Does Operate-No Voltage From Generator

a. Generator problem

See topic "No AC Voltage" in Troubleshooting section of the Generator Service Manual

3. Engine Does Operate-Generator Does Give Voltage

a. Transfer switch problem

SE relay contacts faulty

TS relay contacts faulty

Lo relay or related circuit has a failure

b. Wiring problem

Phase EA or EC not connected (open) to transfer switch

Problem 13c: Standby Current Supply Stops Before Normal Current Returns

Problem Cause:

1. Lockout Light Activated (SR Relay Energized)

a. Engine problem

High water temperature

Low oil pressure

Overspeed

No fuel

Overload

Mechanical failure

2. No Lockout Light (SR Relay Not Energized)

a. Generator problem

Malfunction developed during operation-see topic "No AC Voltage" in Troubleshooting section of Generator Service Manual

Problem 13d: Operation Of Standby System When Standby Current Is No Longer Needed

Problem Cause:

1. Standby System Still Gives Power

a. Transfer switch problem

1V, 2V or 3V relay contacts not closing or faulty contact

SE relay has a failure

TS switch and/or contacts not operating

Time delay relay (if fitted) has a failure

2. Standby System Does Not Give Power, But Engine Keeps Operating

a. Cranking panel problem

IR relay has a failure

RR relay has a failure (not always fitted)

TD relay has a failure

b. Problem on engine

Fuel pressure switch has a failure

Rack stop solenoid has a failure or open in its circuit

Fuel rack seizure in the open position (overspeed possible)

c. Transfer switch problem

SE contacts welded

Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel Injections Lines With Support Bracket
(1) A vertical line through the number one injection pump.

The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection pump must be tightened to the correct torque. If the nut is loose, fuel will leak from the connection. If the nut is tightened too tight, the inside diameter of the line will become smaller and cause a restriction to the flow of fuel in the line. Use a torque wrench and a 5P0144 Fuel Line Socket to tighten the fuel injection line nuts to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft)

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Be sure the fuel injection line clamps are installed in the correct location. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines to vibrate and become damaged. The damaged lines may leak and cause a fire.

Tighten metal-to-metal clamps to a torque of ... 2.3 N·m (20 lb in)

NOTE: The 6V4980 Torque Screwdriver Tool Group is available for applying the correct torque.

Shutoff And Alarm System Components

Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure

Test Equipment
(1) 8T0853 Pressure Indicator (0 to 60 psi). (2) 3B7734 Pipe Nipple. (3) 3B6483 Cap. (4) Oil supply line. (5) 3B7263 Pipe Nipple. (6) 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting. (7) 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting. (8) 1F93369 Tees. (9) 5K3772 Hose Assemblies. (10) 44914 Tee.

Test Procedure

1. Remove the cover of the contactor switch and disconnect the wires from the normally closed (B or Blue) terminal.

2. Disconnect the oil supply line from the contactor switch and install the test equipment as shown.

3. Connect the 5K3772 Hose from 44914 Tee (10) to the contactor switch. Put the end of the other 5K3772 Hose in a pan.

4. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. The light of the circuit tester will be activated.

5. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7) and open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6).

6. Look at the pressure indicator, start the engine and run it at low idle rpm. The light must go out, with an increase in oil pressure, at the specification of the switch.

7. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6) and slowly open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7). The light must be activated, with a decrease in oil pressure, at the specification of the switch.

8. Stop the engine.

9. Connect the wire (s) to the normally closed terminal.

10. On contactor switches with a button or a control knob either push the button or turn the knob to the OFF position.

11. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7) and open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6).

12. Start the engine and run it at low idle rpm.

13. Put a jumper wire between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. This will check the system beyond the contactor switch.

14. Remove the jumper wire.

Adjustment of Micro Switch Type Contactor

Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure (Micro Switch Type)
(13) Set for start button. (14) Adjustment screw. (15) Spring. (16) Locknut. (17) Contact button.

1. Loosen locknut (16) and turn adjustment screw (14) counterclockwise to make a decrease in the tension of spring (15).

Wiring Connections
(D) Normally closed B terminal. (E) Normally open W terminal. (F) Common R terminal.

2. Disconnect the wires from the normally closed terminal of the switch.

3. Start the engine and run it at low idle rpm.

4. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6) and slowly open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7) until the pressure indicator shows the pressure specification at which the switch must close with a decrease in pressure. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7).

5. Make sure the set for start button (13) is in the RUN position.

6. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. The light of the circuit tester must not be activated.

7. Turn adjustment screw (14) clockwise until the light of the circuit tester is activated.

8. Tighten the locknut.

9. To check the adjustment, close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7) and open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6).

10. Connect the wires to the normally closed terminal.

11. Close 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (6) and slowly open 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting (7) until the engine stops or the alarm operates.

12. The pressure indicator must show the correct pressure specification of the switch as the engine stops or the alarm operates.

Contactor Switch For Water Temperature

Method of Checking

Heat Sink [Dimensions in mm (in)]

1. Make a heat sink as shown. Material can be brass, steel or cast iron. Drill a 23/32 inch hole through the plate and use a tap to make 1/2 inch NPT threads.

2. Put marks on the two contactor wires that connect the contactor to he circuit. Disconnect the two wires.

3. Remove the contactor and install a 3J5389 Plug. Install the contactor switch in the heat sink.

4. Put the heat sink and contactor in water as shown. Use blocks to support the heat sink at surface level.

5. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the wires that connected the contactor to the circuit.

Test Of Contactor Switch
(1) 2F7112 Thermometer. (2) Fabricated heat sink.

6. Put the 2F7112 Thermometer in the water.

7. Use a torch to heat the water to the temperature range at which the contactor must activate. If the circuit tester light does not come on within the temperature range given in the specifications, make a replacement of the contactor.

8. Let the water temperature go down. If the circuit tester light does not go out within the temperature range given in the specifications, make a replacement of the contactor.

Pressure Switch With Time Delay

Oil Pressure Switch With Time Delay Installed
(1) Junction block. (2) Pressure switch.

1. Disconnect the wires from pressure switch (2). Remove the pressure switch from the junction block (1).

2. Install an elbow, a short nipple, a shutoff valve, a short nipple and tee as shown in place of the pressure switch. Make sure that the valve is closed.

3. Install the pressure switch (2) and a 8T0848 Indicator in the open ends of the tee as shown.

4. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the terminals of the pressure switch.

Test Tools Installed

5. Start the engine. Open the shutoff valve a small amount. Look at the pressure on the 8T0848 Indicator. When the pressure gets to the range given in the specifications, the circuit tester light must go on.

6. Close the shutoff valve. Stop the engine. Open the shutoff valve a small amount. Look at the pressure on the 8T0848 Indicator. When the pressure gets to the range given in the specifications, close the valve. After five minutes open the valve fully. The circuit tester light must stay on a minimum of 30 seconds and a maximum of 15 minutes after the valve is fully opened.

Shutoff Solenoid

1. Make sure the linkage to which the solenoid is connected does not give more than the normal amount of restriction.

2. Connect a voltmeter between the terminals of the solenoid.

3. Activate the solenoid circuit. If the voltage shown on the meter is less than the needed voltage, the circuit has a failure. Check the other components of the circuit. If the voltage is the same or more than the needed voltage, make a replacement of the solenoid.

Mechanical Oil Pressure And Water Temperature Shutoff

Mechanical Oil Pressure And Water Temperature Shutoff (Typical Illustration)
(1) Outlet line. (2) Inlet line. (3) Drain line. (4) Shut down cylinder knob. (5) Water temperature control valve. (6) Line (from the shut down cylinder inlet port. (7) Oil pressure shut down cylinder. (8) Oil pressure shutoff valve.

1. Make a restriction to the flow of air through the radiator or to the flow of coolant through the engine.

2. Install a probe from the 4C6500 Thermometer Group as close as possible to the water temperature control valve (5).

3. Start the engine. The engine must stop in one minute or less from the time the temperature of the coolant gets to the opening temperature of the control valve. If the engine does not stop, do the steps that follow.

4. Stop the engine. Disconnect oil lines (1, 2 and 3) from the control valve.

5. Remove the water temperature control valve (5) from the engine and install the 3J5389 Plug in its place.

6. Connect a 5P8869 Connector and a 4K7965 Hose Assembly to lines (1, 2 and 3).

7. Connect a 60210 Tee on the hose assembly connected to lines (1 and 2).

8. Connect the last 4K7965 Hose Assembly to the last opening of the tee.

9. Connect the other 60210 Tee to the open end of this hose assembly.

10. Connect a 5P7486 Valve to the other end of this 60210 Tee.

11. Connect the open end of the hose assembly connected to drain line (3) to the open end of the 5P7486 Valve.

12. Connect the 8T0848 Indicator on the open end of the 60210 Tee.

13. Start the engine. Run the engine at full load rpm.

14. Slowly open the 5P7486 Valve. Look at the pressure indicator. Oil pressure shut down circuitry must stop the engine when the oil pressure is between 69 and 97 kPa (10 and 14 psi). If the engine does not stop the oil pressure shutoff valve (8) or the oil pressure shut down cylinder (7) have a failure or there could be a restriction in the lines (1, 2 or 3).

15. To check the oil pressure shutoff valve (8) and the oil pressure shutdown cylinder, remove line (6). With extra tubing direct line (6) into the engine oil filler port. Repeat Steps 13 and 14. Instead of the engine shutting down a stream of oil should exit line (6) into the engine oil filler port. If this does not happen line (6) could have a restriction or the oil pressure shutoff valve (8) has a failure.

NOTE: A small trickle of oil will always exit line (6) but will change to a stream when the oil pressure shutoff valve (8) is activated. This is because the oil pressure shutoff valve (8) consists of a pilot valve and a control valve.

16. Make repairs as necessary and repeat Steps 13 and 14.

17. When oil exists line (6) properly at the correct pressure install line (6). Repeat Steps 13 and 14. If the engine still does not shut down replace the oil pressure shut down cylinder.

18. When the oil pressure shutoff stops the engine at correct pressure remove the tools and install the water temperature control valve (5).

19. Do Steps 1, 2 and 3 again. If the water temperature control valve (5) does not cause the engine to stop make a replacement of the control valve.

Electric Shutoff System

Troubleshooting Procedures

Wiring Diagram (Fuel Shutoff Solenoid Energized to Shutoff)
(1) Magnetic pickup. (2) Crank terminate switch. (3) Dual speed switch. (4) Time delay relay. (5) Switch (N/O). (6) Shutdown relay. (7) Battery. (8) Diode assembly. (9) Shutoff solenoid. (10) Starting motor.

Troubleshooting Procedure (Overspeed)

Troubleshooting Procedure (Crank Terminate)

Service Procedures

Introduction

The information in this section is a supplement to the troubleshooting methods of the previous section. This material is much more descriptive and detailed for the user who is less familiar with these components. The Troubleshooting Section makes constant references to this section when more detailed information is necessary to complete a diagnosis, or to calibrate or test a component.

Service Procedure A: Overspeed Verify TestService Procedure B: Overspeed CalibrationService Procedure C: Crank Terminate Speed CalibrationService Procedure D: Oil Step Speed CalibrationService Procedure E: Magnetic Pickup CheckService Procedure F: Diode TestService Procedure G: Pressure Switch TestService Procedure H: Slave Relay TestService Procedure J: Water Temperature SwitchService Procedure K: Protection System Battery DrainService Procedure L: Air Inlet Temperature Switch

Service Procedure A

Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Overspeed Verify Test

1. Run the engine at rated speed and push verify button (1) in for a moment. This will cause the speed switch to activate and cause engine shutdown.

NOTE: Any time the engine speed is 75 percent or more of the overspeed setting, engine shutdown will occur if the verify button is pushed.

Example: For an engine with a rated speed of 1800 rpm, the overspeed setting is 2124 rpm (see SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART and Note A). The overspeed verify test will cause shutdown of the engine at 75 percent (± 25 rpm) of the overspeed setting of 2124 rpm. In this example, 75 percent of 2124 rpm is approximately 1593 rpm. If the verify button is pushed at an engine speed of approximately 1593 rpm or above, engine shutdown will occur.

The "LED" overspeed light (3) will come on and stay on until the reset button is pushed after an overspeed switch shutdown. Before restarting the engine, push in reset button (2) for a moment. This will reset the speed switch, and the "LED" overspeed light (3) will go off. The emergency stop switch (ES) must now be manually reset before the engine can be started again

NOTE A: The engine overspeed setting rpm is 118 percent of rated engine rpm.

NOTE B: To verify overspeed shutdown system operation, push in the VERIFY button for a moment. The engine must shut down at 75 percent or more of overspeed setting.

NOTE D: Input Voltage: Maximum 40 VDC; Minimum 8 VDC.

Service Procedure B

Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Overspeed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (4) from access hole for overspeed adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in direction of "MAX ARROW" (clockwise).

NOTE: The overspeed adjustment screw is made so that it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Run the engine at 75 percent of desired overspeed setting rpm. Make reference to the SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A).

4. With engine at 75 percent of overspeed setting rpm, push VERIFY button (1) and hold in. Turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer in the direction opposite of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise) slowly until "LED" overspeed light (3) comes ON. Engine will shut down if speed switch is connected to the fuel shutoff solenoid and/or the air inlet shutoff solenoid.

5. To reset speed switch, push in reset button (2).

6. Slowly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer approximately one turn clockwise and do Steps 3, 4 and 5 again.

NOTE: More adjustment may be needed to get the correct setting. Turn adjustment potentiometer clockwise to increase speed setting, and counterclockwise to decrease speed setting. Turn adjustment potentiometer very slowly only a small amount at a time until adjustment is correct.

7. When the speed setting is correct, install seal screw plug (4) in overspeed adjustment access hole. Tighten screw to a torque of 0.20 ± 0.03 N·m (2 ± .3 lb in). Install the lockwire and seal (if crank termination and oil step adjustments are complete).

Service Procedure C

Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Crank Terminate Speed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (5) from access hole for crank terminate adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in direction of "MAX ARROW" (clockwise).

NOTE: The crank terminate screw is made so that it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Turn the crank terminate adjustment potentiometer twelve turns in a direction opposite of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise) for an approximate crank terminate setting.

4. Connect a voltmeter (6V7070 Multimeter or a voltmeter of same accuracy) with the positive lead at ESS-12 and the negative lead at ESS-5. Start the engine and make a note of the speed at which the system voltage is canceled (this is the speed at which the DC starting system disengages). See the SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A) for the correct crank terminate speed.

NOTE: If this setting is not correct, do Steps 5, 6 and 7. If the setting was correct, go to Step 7.

5. Stop the engine and turn the crank terminate adjustment potentiometer one full turn in the correct direction (clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease).

6. With the voltmeter still connected as in Step 4, start the engine and make a note of the speed at which the system voltage is canceled (this is the speed at which the DC starting system disengages). If needed, make more small adjustments until the crank terminate speed is correct.

7. Install seal screw plug (5) in crank terminate adjustment access hole. Tighten to a torque of 0.20 ± 0.03 N·m (2 ± .3 lb in). Install the lockwire and seal (if overspeed and oil step adjustments are complete).

Service Procedure D

Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Oil Step Speed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (6) from access hole for oil step adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn oil step adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in the direction of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise). This will lower the oil step speed setting to its lowest value.

NOTE: The oil step adjustment screw is made so it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Use a 6V7070 Multimeter (or a voltmeter of same accuracy) to check for positive (+) voltage at terminal ESS-13 [negative (-) voltage is at terminal ESS-5].

4. Make reference to SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A). For a particular engine rating, find the specified rpm in column for Oil Step Speed Setting. Run the engine at this specified rpm.

5. With the engine running, look into the oil step adjustment access hole. A red "LED" (light emitting diode) light will be ON. A positive (+) voltage will be seen at terminal ESS-13, nine seconds after "LED" light comes ON. Now turn the oil step adjustment potentiometer clockwise until the red light in the oil step access hole goes OFF. When the light goes OFF, this indicates that the oil step rpm setting is above the present running rpm of the engine. Slowly turn the adjustment potentiometer counterclockwise until the light comes back ON. After a nine second delay, positive (+) voltage will again be seen at terminal ESS-13.

6. When the oil step speed setting is correct, install seal screw plug (6) into the adjustment access hole for the oil step function. Tighten plug to a torque of 0.20 ± 0.03 N·m (2 ± .3 lb in). If all other adjustments are complete (overspeed and crank terminate), install lockwire and seal.

Service Procedure E

Magnetic Pickup Check

1. Connect a 6V7070 Multimeter (or a voltmeter of same accuracy) to electronic speed switch common terminal (ESS-3) and signal terminal (ESS-4). Set the meter voltage scale to a scale greater than 1.5 VAC. Start the engine and run at idle rpm or 600 rpm (whichever is greater).

If the measured voltage is 1.5 VAC or more, the operation of the magnetic pickup is correct. If measured voltage is less than 1.5 VAC, go to Step 2.

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NOTICE

The magnetic pickup is an important part of the ETR Shutoff Protection System. It is required for crank terminate, overspeed and governing. Be ready to take action when the magnetic pickup is disconnected.

2. Stop the engine. Disconnect the wiring from the magnetic pickup at the plug-in connector and connect the voltmeter to magnetic pickup connector terminals. Start the engine and run at idle rpm or 600 rpm (whichever is greater).

If the measured voltage is 1.5 VAC or more, repair or replace the wiring between the magnetic pickup and the electronic speed switch. If the measured voltage is less than 1.5 VAC, go to Step 3.

Magnetic Pickup
(1) Clearance dimension. (2) Locknut.

3. Remove the magnetic pickup from the engine flywheel housing and turn the flywheel until a gear tooth is directly in the center of the threaded opening for the magnetic pickup. Install the magnetic pickup again in the threads of the flywheel housing.

4. Turn (by hand) in a clockwise direction until the end of the magnetic pickup just makes contact with the gear tooth. Now turn the magnetic pickup back out 1/2 turn (180 degrees in the counterclockwise direction) to get the correct air gap [clearance dimension (1)]. Now tighten locknut (2) to a torque of 45 ± 7 N·m (33 ± 5 lb ft).

NOTE: Do not let the magnetic pickup turn while locknut (2) is tightened.

Do Step 2 again. If voltage is still less than 1.5 VAC, replace the magnetic pickup.

Service Procedure F

Diode Test

Use the 6V7070 or the 6V7800 Multimeter for this test, and turn the multimeter dial to the Diode position. Disconnect the diode from its circuit.

1. Connect the positive probe of the multimeter to one end of the diode and the negative probe to the other end of the diode. Make a note of the multimeter reading.

2. Now reverse the multimeter connections on the diode. Make a note of these readings.

If the reading was high in one test and low in the other test, the diode is good. If the readings were the same in both tests (either high or low), the diode is defective and needs to be replaced.

Service Procedure G

Pressure Switch Test

Use the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group and a continuity check for this test. If an access hole to the same pressure is not close or not available, remove the switch and install a tee at this location. Install the pressure switch in one side of the tee and connect the correct pressure indicator (from the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group) to the other side of the tee.

NOTE: This test can also be performed on bench by using air pressure if the correct fittings are available.

With the wires disconnected from the pressure switch, check continuity of the switch terminals with the engine stopped and also with the engine running at the correct speed. Make a note of the pressure indicator reading when the continuity of the switch terminals changes. Compare this pressure reading with the correct specifications for the switch.

NOTE: If the pressure switch has three terminals, first check the continuity of both the N/O and N/C terminals to the common terminal with the engine stopped. Now use the N/O terminal (had no continuity when the engine was stopped) for the test with the engine running. This will make sure that, when the switch breaks contact across the N/C terminal, it moves all the way to close across the N/O set of contacts at the other terminal.

Service Procedure H

Slave Relay Test

Remove the relay(s) from the junction box. Connect the negative lead of a 24 volt source to terminal 5 of the relay and connect the positive lead to terminal 1. Use a voltmeter to check the relay as follows:

1. Touch the negative probe of the voltmeter to terminal 5 and the positive probe to terminal 2. Voltage reading should be 24 volts.

2. With negative probe of voltmeter still at terminal 5, touch positive probe to terminal 3. Voltage reading should be zero.

Now put a jumper across terminal 1 and terminal 4.

3. Touch negative probe of voltmeter to terminal 5 and touch the positive probe to terminal 2. Voltage reading should be zero.

4. With negative probe still at terminal 5, touch positive probe to terminal 3. Voltage reading should be 24 volts.

If any of the readings from the above tests are incorrect or opposite from those shown, the relay is bad and should be replaced.

Service Procedure J

Water Temperature Switch

Use the 8T0470 Thermistor Thermometer Group and the 8T0500 Continuity Testing Light for this test. Install a probe from the thermometer group into the water manifold as close as possible to the temperature switch. Unplug the electrical connector from the temperature switch.

NOTE: DO NOT attempt to test the temperature switch off the engine. The switch uses water flow and temperature both to activate the switch at the correct temperature.

With the wires disconnected from the temperature switch, check the continuity of both the N/O and the N/C terminals to the common terminal with the engine stopped. Now use the N/O terminal (had not continuity when the engine was stopped) for the test with the engine running. This will make sure that, when the switch breaks contact across the N/C terminal, it moves all the way to close across the N/O set of contacts at the other terminal.

Start the engine and with the engine under load, restrict the radiator or heat exchanger flow to bring up the engine temperature. When engine temperature reaches the activation point of the temperature switch, the N/O terminal should close. The switch is okay. If the N/O terminal does not close, the switch is defective.

Immediately reduce the load and reduce the jacket water temperature. Allow the engine to run at idle until the temperature returns to normal before stopping the engine. Replace the switch if necessary and reconnect wiring before starting the engine.

Service Procedure K

Protection System Battery Drain

There are two components used in the electric protection system that continue to draw small amounts of current from the battery when the engine is not running. These components are the electronic speed switch (ESS) and the charging alternator.

For a system that uses only one of these components, an engine can remain shut down for months without discharging the battery enough to prevent starting. Systems that use both of the above components may remain idle for a month or more without excessive battery drain Cold weather decreases battery efficiency and will reduce these time periods even more.

In most applications, the engine is started weekly or a battery charger is used to keep the battery at full charge, so few problems have been noted. For those applications where the engine is not used for extended periods (such as rental fleets), the suggestions that follow can be used to prevent battery discharge.

If the engine will not be operated for several weeks (without a battery charger), disconnect the battery cable from the negative (-) side of the battery. If it is expected that this condition will happen frequently, the 7N0718 Battery Disconnect Switch can be installed for convenience. This switch should be installed between the negative terminal of the battery and the negative terminal of the starting motor.

A suitable bracket should be fabricated to mount the switch close to either the battery or the starting motor (the switch can be mounted inside the power distribution box on generator set engines). In all applications, the 7N0718 Battery Disconnect Switch should be mounted within 30 degrees of vertical.

Service Procedure L

Air Inlet Temperature Switch

Use the 8T0470 Thermistor Thermometer Group and the 8T0500 Continuity Testing Light for this test. Install a probe from the thermometer group into the inlet air manifold as close as possible to the temperature switch. Unplug the electrical connector from the temperature switch.

Start the engine and with the engine under load, restrict the aftercooler, radiator or heat exchanger water flow to bring up the engine inlet air temperature. When engine inlet air temperature reaches the activation point of the temperature switch, the N/O terminal should close. The switch is okay. If the N/O terminal does not close, the switch is defective.

Immediately reduce the load and reduce the inlet air temperature. Allow the engine to run at idle until the temperature returns to normal before stopping the engine. Replace the switch if necessary and reconnect wiring before starting the engine.

Time Delay Relay

On/Off Time Delay (Relay)

Performance Check

A. Items Required For Check:

1. Battery or any D.C. source of 8 to 40 volts.

2. Voltmeter (6V7070 Multimeter or one of same accuracy).

3. Stop watch.

B. Bench Or Installed Test.

Connect or verify source voltage to relay terminals 8 (-) and 4 (+) [if bench testing, also connect positive (+) voltage to relay terminal 6]. All connections must be maintained until tests are complete.

NOTE: There will be voltage when the relay is closed. When relay is open, there will be no voltage [voltage may be positive (+) or negative (-) when relay is tested on engine; when bench testing, voltage will always be positive (+)].

1. Use the voltmeter to verify chart that follows:

2. (a) Apply positive (+) source voltage to terminal 1 and immediately verify the chart that follows (do not leave voltage on terminal 1 for more than 60 seconds):

(b) Remove positive (+) source voltage from terminal 1. Use a stop watch and check the time from the moment of removal to verify chart that follows:

3. (a) Apply positive (+) source voltage to terminal 2.

NOTE: If bench testing, Step 3 can be used as stated. When the unit is installed on the engine, all wires must be disconnected from Terminal 2 to prevent a direct short.

Check the time form the moment voltage is applied to verify chart that follows (do not leave voltage on terminal 2 for more than 60 seconds):

(b) Remove positive (+) source voltage from terminal 2. Check the time from the moment of removal to verify chart that follows:

4. Remove wire from terminal 4 and verify chart that follows:

Instruments And Indicators

Oil Pressure Sending Units

Sending Unit For Oil Pressure
(1) Terminal. (2) Fitting.

1. Connect the sending unit to a pressure source that can be measured with accuracy.

2. Connect an ohmmeter between fitting (2) and terminal (1).

3. Take resistance readings at the pressure shown in the chart.

4. If a unit does not have the correct resistance readings, make a replacement of the unit.

Water Temperature Sending Units

Sending Unit For Water Temperature
(1) Terminal. (2) Nut. (3) Bulb.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between terminal (1) and nut (2). Put bulb (3) in a pan of water. Do not let the bulb have contact with the pan.

2. Put a thermometer in the water to measure the temperature.

3. Take a resistance readings at the temperatures shown in the chart.

4. If a unit does not have the correct resistance readings, make a replacement of the unit.

Electric Indicators

1. Put the indicator in position with the letters horizontal and the face 30 degrees back from vertical.

Wiring Diagram For Test
(1) Terminal (for test voltage). (2) Test resistance.

2. Connect the indicator in series with the power source and the middle test resistance shown in the chart.

3. Let the indicator heat at the middle resistance for five minutes, then check the pointer position for all of the resistance given.

Mechanical Indicators For Temperature

Direct Reading Indicator

To check these indicators, put the bulb of the indicator in a pan of oil. Do not let the bulb touch the pan. Put a thermometer in the oil to measure the temperature. Make a comparison of temperatures on the thermometer with the temperatures on the direct reading indicator.

Mechanical Indicators For Oil Pressure

Direct Reading Indicator

To check these indicators connect the indicator to a pressure source that can be measured with accuracy. Make a comparison of pressure on the indicator of test equipment with the pressures on the direct reading indicator.

Power Take-Off Clutch

Clutch Adjustment

Check for the correct clutch engagement force. The clutch engagement force can be measured by two methods.

1. Disconnect linkage (if so equipped) from the clutch lever.

2. Check clutch engagement force.

A. 3N7841, 4P3073 and 5N3334:

Fasten a spring scale to the clutch lever at the distance, form the shaft center, shown in the chart.

B. 2W4908:

Use a torque wrench on the splined shaft or hex shape on lever

3. If the force needed to engage the clutch is not correct, make an adjustment as follows:

4. Remove the inspection plate from the clutch housing.

Clutch Adjustment
(1) Lock pin (push type). (2) Lock pin (pull type).

5. Turn the clutch until lock pin (1) can be seen.

6. Release lock pin (1). Turn the adjustment ring and check the pull needed to engage the clutch again.

NOTE: Turn the adjustment ring clockwise, as seen from the rear of the clutch, to increase the pull needed. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease the pull needed.

Assembly Adjustments

3N7841 Clutch Group (End Play For Shaft Bearings)

1. With the bearings installed on the shaft, install the shaft in the housing.

2. Tighten the bearing retainer until there is no clearance between the cup and cone.

3. Now, loosen the retainer 1 to 2 notches and install the bolt and lock to hold the retainer.

4. Hit the output end of the clutch shaft. This will cause the front bearing cup to move against the retainer.

5. Check the shaft end play with a dial indicator. Shaft end play is 0.10 to 0.18 mm (.004 to .007 in).

6. If necessary, remove the bolt and lock and turn the retainer to get the correct end play.

5N3334 And 4P3073 Clutch Groups (End Play for Shaft Bearings)

1. With the bearings installed on the shaft, install the shaft in the housing.

2. Tighten the bearing retainer until there is no clearance between the cup and cone.

3. Now, loosen the retainer 2 to 3 notches and install the bolt and lock to hold the retainer.

4. Hit the output end of the clutch shaft. This will cause the front bearing cup to move against the retainer.

5. Measure the end play for the shaft. The correct end play is 0.15 to 0.25 mm (.006 to .010 in).

6. If necessary, remove the bolt and lock and turn the retainer to get the correct end play.

7. Install the lock for the retainer.

2W4908 Clutch Group (End Play for Shaft Bearings)

1. With dry bearings installed on the shaft, install the shaft in the housing.

2. Install the retainer with no shims. Tighten the retainer until 7 N·m (60 lb in) is needed to keep the shaft in rotation.

3. Measure the shim gap and add 0.33 mm (.011 in) to get proper shim thickness.

4. Assemble the shims and the retainer.

5. Check the shaft end play with a dial indicator. Shaft end play is 0.15 to 0.25 mm (.006 to .010 in).

6. If necessary, add or remove shims to get the correct end play.

Hub Nut Installation

3N78441 Clutch Group

1. Tighten the hub nut to a torque of ... 40 N·m (30 lb ft)

2. Tighten the nut 60 to 90 degrees more.

5N3334 And 4P3073 Clutch Groups

1. Tighten the hub nut to a torque of ... 40 N·m (30 lb ft)

2. Tighten the nut 150 to 180 degrees more.

2W4908 Clutch Group

1. Tighten the hub nut to a torque of ... 40 N·m (30 lb ft)

2. Tighten the nut 180 to 210 degrees more.

Electric Starting System

Use the multimeter in the DCV range to find starting system components which do not function.

Move the start control switch to activate the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid operation can be heard as the pinion of the starting motor is engaged with the ring gear on the engine flywheel.

If the solenoid for the starting motor will not operate, it is possible that the current from the battery did not get to the solenoid. Fasten one lead of the multimeter to the connection (terminal) for the battery cable on the solenoid. Put the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading is an indication that there is a broken circuit from the battery. More testing is necessary when there is a voltage reading on the multimeter.

The solenoid operation also closes the electric circuit to the motor. Connect one lead of the multimeter to the solenoid connection (terminal) that is fastened to the motor. Put the other lead to a good ground. Activate the starter solenoid and look at the multimeter. A reading of battery voltage shows the problem is in the motor. The motor must be removed for further testing. A zero reading on the multimeter shows that the solenoid contacts do not close. This is an indication of the need for repair to the solenoid or an adjustment to be made to the starter pinion clearance.

Make a test with one multimeter lead fastened to the connection (terminal) for the small wire at the solenoid and the other lead to the ground. Look at the multimeter and activate the starter solenoid. A voltage reading shows that the problem is in the solenoid. A zero reading is an indication that the problem is in the start switch or the wires for the start switch.

Fasten one multimeter lead to the start switch at the connection (terminal) for the wire from the battery. Fasten the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading indicates a broken circuit from the battery. Make a check of the circuit breaker and wiring. If there is a voltage reading, the problem is in the start switch or in the wires for the start switch.

A starting motor that operates too slow can have an overload because of too much friction in the engine being started. Slow operation of the starting motor can also be caused by a short circuit, loose connections and/or dirt in the motor.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment

When the solenoid is installed, make an adjustment of the pinion clearance. The adjustment can be made with the starting motor removed.

Connection For Checking Pinion Clearance
(1) Connector (from MOTOR terminal on solenoid to the motor). (2) Terminal (3) Ground terminal.

1. With the solenoid installed on the starting motor, remove connector (1).

2. Connect a battery, of the same voltage as the solenoid, to the terminal (2), marked SW.

3. Connect the other side of the battery to ground terminal (3).

4. Connect for a moment a wire from the solenoid connection (terminal) marked MOTOR to the ground connection (terminal). The pinion will shift to crank position and will stay there until the battery is disconnected.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment
(4) Nut. (5) Pinion. (6) Pinion clearance.

5. Push the pinion toward the commutator end to remove free movement.

6. Pinion clearance (6) must be 8.3 to 9.9 mm (.33 to .39 in).

7. To adjust pinion clearance, remove plug and turn nut (4).

8. After the adjustment is completed, install the plug over adjustment nut (4) and install connector (1) between the MOTOR terminal on the solenoid and the starting motor.

Air Starting System

Pressure Regulating Valve

Pressure Regulating Valve (Typical Illustration)
(1) Adjustment screw. (2) Regulator inlet. (3) Regulator outlet.

To check and adjust the pressure regulating valve, use the procedure that follows:

1. Drain the line to the pressure regulating valve or drain the air storage tank.

2. Disconnect the regulator from the starter control valve.

3. Connect an 8M2885 Pressure Indicator to regulator outlet (3).

4. Put air pressure in the line or tank.

5. Check the pressure.

6. Adjust the pressure regulating valve to ... 690 to 1030 kPa (100 to 150 psi)

7. Remove the air pressure from the line or tank.

8. Remove the 8M2885 Pressure Indicator and connect the air pressure regulator to the line to the air starting motor.

Each engine application will have to be inspected to get the most acceptable starting results. Some of the factors that affect regulating valve pressure setting are: attachment loads pulled by engine during starting, ambient temperature conditions, oil viscosity, capacity of air reservoir, and condition of engine (new or worn).

The advantage of setting the valve at the higher pressures is increased torque for starting motor and faster rotation of engine. The advantage of setting the valve at the lower pressures is longer time of engine rotation for a given capacity of supply air.

Lubrication

Always use an air line lubricator with these air starting motors.

For temperatures above 0°C (32°F), use a non detergent 10W engine oil.

For temperatures below 0°C (32°F), use air tool oil.

Air Starting Motor

Components Of The Air Starting Motor
(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Plug. (3A) Plug. (6) Bolt (cap screw). (7) Lockwasher. (8) Gasket. (9) Rotor rear bearing. (10) Bearing retainer. (11) Rear end plate. (12) Cylinder. (13) Dowel. (14) Rotor vane. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (17) Rotor front bearing. (18) Motor housing. (19) Gear case gasket. (20) Rotor pinion. (21) Rotor pinion retainer. (22) Gear case. (23) Bearing rejecting washer. (24) Rear bearing (for the drive shaft). (25) Drive gear. (25A) Thrust washer. (26) Key (for the drive gear). (27) Front bearing (for the drive shaft). (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal (for the drive shaft). (30) Cover seal. (31) Piston seal. (32) Bolt. (33) Lockwasher. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (36) Piston. (36A) Piston ring. (37) Shift ring. (38) Shift ring retainer. (39) Shift ring spacer. (40) Piston return spring. (41) Return spring seat. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (43) Lockwasher. (44) Bushing (for the bolts). (45) Drive housing. (46) Drive housing bushing. (47) Oiler felt (for the bushing). (48) Oiler plug.

Rear View Of The Cylinder And Rotor For Clockwise Rotation
(12) Cylinder. (12A) Air inlet passages. (12B) Dowel hole. (15) Rotor.

Air Starting Motor
(6) Bolt. (12) Cylinder. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (22) Gear case. (25) Drive gear. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal. (32) Bolt. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (45) Drive housing. (49) Air inlet. (50) Deflector (air outlet). (51) Mounting flange (on the drive housing).

The cylinder (12) must be assembled over the rotor (15) and on the front end plate (16) so the dowel hole (12B) and the inlet passages (12A) for the air are as shown in the rear view illustration of the cylinder and rotor. If the installation is not correct, the starter drive (42) will turn in the wrong direction.

Tighten the bolts (6) of the rear cover in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight 30 ± 5 N·m (22 ± 4 lb ft).

Put a thin layer of lubricant on the lip of the seal (29) and on the outside of the collar (35), for installation of drive shaft (34). After installation of the shaft through the gear case cover (28) check the lip of the grease seal (29). It must be turned correctly toward the drive gear (25). If the shaft turned the seal lip in the wrong direction, remove the shaft and install again. Use a tool with a thin point to turn the seal lip in the correct direction.

Tighten the bolts (32) of the drive housing in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight 11.3 N·m (100 lb in).

Check the motor for correct operation. Connect an air hose to the motor inlet (49) and make the motor turn slowly. Look at the starter drive (42) from the front of the drive housing (45). The pinion must turn clockwise.

Connect an air hose to the small hole with threads in the drive housing (45), nearer the gear case (22). When a little air pressure goes to the drive housing, the starter drive (42) must move forward to the engaged position. Also, the air must get out through the other hole with threads nearer the mounting flange (51).

Components Of The Air Starting Motor
(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Nameplate. (4) Screw. (5) Bolt (cap screw). (6) Plug. (7) Rear end plate. (8) O-ring seal. (9) Cylinder housing kit. (10) Dowel. (11) Front end plate. (12) O-ring seal. (13) Rotor. (14) Rear rotor bearing. (15) O-ring seal. (16) Retaining nut. (17) Retaining nut cover. (18) Front rotor bearing. (19) Wave washers. (20) Rotor vanes. (21) Rotor pinion. (22) Bolts. (23) Gear case. (24) O-ring seal. (25) Drive gear. (26) Drive gear bearing. (27) Retaining ring. (28) Gear case seal. (29) Retaining ring. (31) Piston kit. (32) O-ring seal. (33) Piston bearing. (34) Retaining ring. (35) Clutch jaw kit. (36) Retaining ring. (37) Clutch springs. (38) Clutch spring cup. (39) Piston return springs. (40) Return spring seat. (41) Drive shaft. (42) Drive shaft spacer. (43) Drive shaft washer. (44) Bolt. (45) Drive shaft collar. (45) Drive pinion. (47) Bolt. (48) Drive housing kit. (49) Drive housing seal. (50) Drive housing bearing. (51) O-ring seal. (52) Drive housing washer. (53) Drive housing gasket. (54) Bolts.

Air Starting Motor
(5) Bolts. (7) Rear end plate. (16) Retaining nut. (22) Bolts. (28) Gear case seal. (44) Bolt. (47) Bolt. (54) Bolts.

During assembly put two pieces of 0.10 mm (.004 in) shim stock between rotor body and rear end plate (7). Tighten retaining nut (16) until there is a slight drag on the shim stock. Tighten the clamping screw in the retaining nut (16). The clearance between the rotor assembly and the end plate can be 0.05 to 0.13 mm (.002 to .005 in).

Install four bolts (5), and tighten to a torque of ... 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

Tighten bolts (22) to a torque of ... 68 N·m (50 lb ft).

Install gear case seal (28) lip side first, into the small bore of the gear case. Put a thin layer of lubricant on the lip type seal and all O-ring seals.

Install bolt (44) and tighten to a torque of ... 75 N·m (55 lb ft).

Install four bolts (54). Tighten to a torque of ... 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

Tighten the bolt (47) to a torque of ... 75 N·m (55 lb ft).

After assembly, turn the drive pinion by hand in the direction of starter rotation. The clutch should ratchet smoothly with a slight "clicking" action. Attach a hose to the "IN" port and apply 345 kPa (50 psi) air pressure. The drive pinion should move outward and air will escape from the "OUT" port. Plug the "OUT" port and apply 1034 kPa (150 psi) air pressure.

The distance measured from the face of the drive pinion to the face of the mounting flange should be 70.5 mm (2.77 in). Remove pressure from the "IN" port. The measured distance should be 46.3 mm (1.82 in).

Connect a 9 mm (3/8 in) inlet hose at 620 kPa (90 psi). The starter should run smoothly. Plug the exhaust port and apply 207 kPa (30 psi) air pressure. Immerse starter in a non-flammable solvent for 30 seconds. If the starter is properly sealed, no air bubbles will appear.

Rack Shutoff Solenoid

Adjust, if necessary, the distance (2) between the shaft and the plate to 24.4 mm (.96 in) at the start of the test.

Rack Solenoid
(1) Travel 15.7 mm (.62 in). (2) Distance between shaft and plate 24.4 mm (.96 in). (3) Start position of plunger plate from mounting flange is 11.2 mm (.44 in) to measure travel of plunger.

Two checks must be made on the engine to give proof that the solenoid adjustment is correct.

1. The adjustment must give the plunger enough travel to move the rack to the fuel shutoff position. Use the 9S0240 Rack Position Tool Group to make sure the rack goes to the fuel shutoff position.

2. The adjustment must give the plunger enough travel to cause only the "hold-in" windings of the solenoid to be activated when the rack is held in the fuel shutoff position. Use a thirty ampere ammeter to make sure the plunger is in the "hold-in" position. Current needed must be less than two amperes.

Rack Solenoid
(1) Solenoid plunger. (2) Stop bolt. (3) Locknut. (4) Lock wire and seal.

1. Remove any manual shutoff shaft linkage from the governor.

2. Remove lock wire and seal (4). Loosen locknut (3) and turn stop bolt (2) several turns out [away from solenoid plunger (1)]

3. Rotate the manual shutoff shaft clockwise to the shutoff position. Fasten the shaft in the shutoff position.

4. Hold locknut (3) and turn stop bolt (2) in until the bolt contacts shutoff solenoid plunger (1).

5. Turn stop bolt (2) in an additional 3/4 ± 1/4 turn and tighten locknut (3).

6. Release the manual shutoff shaft.

7. Start the engine.

8. The engine should run at low idle without a problem.

9. To test the solenoid stop bolt adjustment, run the engine at high idle and no load. Shut off the engine and the engine should stop.

10. If the engine continues to run at reduced speed or shuts down too slowly, turn the stop bolt (2) out an additional 1/4 turn and repeat Step 9.

11. If possible, apply a load to the engine and make sure the engine will maintain the normal full load speed. Remove the load and return the engine to low idle.

12. Shut off the engine.