BENDIX AIR COMPRESSOR 1W150R AIR COMPRESSO Caterpillar


Removal And Disassembly

Usage:

General

The following instructions are presented here for reference. Removal and disassembly of the air compressor is not recommended unless the appropriate service parts and/or kits are on hand.

Removal

These instructions are general and are intended to be a guide, in some cases additional preparations and precautions are necessary.

1. Block the wheels of the vehicle and drain the air pressure from all the reservoirs in the system.

2. Drain the engine cooling system and the cylinder head of the air compressor. Identify and disconnect all air, water and oil lines leading to and from the air compressor.

3. Remove the discharge port and inlet cavity fittings, if applicable, and note their position on the air compressor to aid in reassembly.

4. Remove the flange or base mounting bolts and remove the air compressor from the vehicle.

5. Remove the drive gear(s) or pulley from the air compressor crankshaft using a gear puller. Inspect the pulley or gear and associated parts for visible wear or damage. Since these parts are precision fitted, they must be replaced if they are worn or damaged.

Preparation For Disassembly

Remove road dirt and grease from the exterior of the air compressor with a cleaning solvent. Before the air compressor is disassembled, the following items should be marked to show their relationship when the air compressor is assembled. Mark the end cover in relation to the crankcase. Mark the cylinder head in relation to the crankcase. Mark the sump plate in relation to the crankcase.

A convenient method to indicate the above relationship is to use a metal scribe to mark the parts with numbers or lines. Do not use a marking method that can be wiped off or obliterated during rebuilding, such as chalk. Remove all air compressor attachments which have not been previously specified.

Cylinder Head Disassembly

Remove the four cylinder head bolts and tap the head with a soft mallet to break the gasket seal. Scrape off any gasket material from the cylinder head and crankcase. Remove the circlip and the unloader valve assembly from the cylinder head. Make a replacement of the unloader spring and two o-ring seals from the service kit.

Inspect the unloader piston bore for nicks, wear, corrosion and scoring. It is recommended that the cylinder head body be replaced if it is determined that the unloader piston bore has excessive wear or damage

Crankcase Sump Plate

Remove the bolts securing the sump plate. Tap with soft mallet to break the gasket seal. Scrape off any gasket material from crankcase and sump plate.

Connecting Rod Disassembly

Before removing the connecting rod, mark the connecting rod and its cap. The connecting rod is matched to its own cap for proper fit, and the cap must be reinstalled in the same position on the connecting rod.

1. Straighten the prongs of the connecting rod bolt locks and remove the bolts and bearing cap.

2. Push the piston with the connecting rod attached out the top of the cylinder of the crankcase. Replace the bearing cap on the connecting rod.

3. Remove the piston rings from the piston. If the piston is to be removed from the connecting rod, remove the wrist pin circlips and remove the wrist pin from the piston and connecting rod.

4. If the piston is removed from the connecting rod, inspect the wrist pin bore in the connecting rod. If excessive wear is noted or suspected, replace the connecting rod.

Air Compressor Crankcase Disassembly

1. Remove the key or keys from the crankshaft and any burrs from the crankshaft where the key or keys were removed.

NOTE: Through drive air compressors may have a crankshaft key at both ends.

2. Remove the bolts that fasten the end cover to the crankcase.

3. Remove the end cover and end cover O-ring taking care not to damage the bearing if present in the end cover.

4. If the air compressor has ball type main bearings, press the crankshaft and ball bearings from the crankcase, then press the ball bearings from the crankshaft.

Cleaning Of Parts

General

All parts should be cleaned in a good commercial grade solvent and dried prior to inspection.

Cylinder Head

Remove carbon deposits from the discharge cavity and rust and scale from the cooling cavities of the cylinder head body. Scrape all foreign matter from the body surfaces and use shop air pressure to blow the dirt particles from the cavities.

Clean carbon and dirt from the inlet and unloader passages. Use shop air to blow the carbon and dirt deposits from the unloader passages.

Oil Passages

Thoroughly clean all oil passages through the crankshaft, crankcase, and end covers. Inspect the passages with a wire to be sure they are clear. Blow the loosened foreign matter out with shop air.

Inspection Of Parts

Cylinder Head Body

Inspect the cylinder head for cracks and obvious physical damage. Pay particular attention to the area around coolant ports for cracks. Check for stripped or damaged threads. Apply shop air pressure to one of the coolant ports with all others plugged, and check for leakage by applying a soap solution to the exterior of the body. If leakage is detected, replace the cylinder head.

End Covers

Check for cracks, and external damage; and if noted, replace the end cover. If the crankshaft main bearings are installed in the end cover, check for excessive wear and flat spots and replace the end cover if necessary.

Crankcase

Check all crankcase surfaces for cracks and damage. Pay particular attention to cooling fins. On air compressors where ball bearing main bearings are used the difference between the OD of the outer race and the ID of the crankcase hole should be 0.000 to 0.038 mm (.0000 to .0015 in) loose. This is to maintain the correct press fit. the crankcase must be replaced if the fit is too loose.

On air compressors fitted with precision, sleeve main bearings the difference between the OD of the crankshaft journal and the main bearing ID must not exceed 0.102 mm (.0040 in), or the end cover and main bearing must be replaced.

The cylinder bore should be checked with inside micrometers or calipers. Cylinder bores which are scored or out of round by more than 0.0123 mm (.0005 in) or tapered more than 0.0123 mm (.0005 in) should be rebored or honed oversize. Oversized pistons and piston rings are available in 0.25 mm (.010 in) and 0.50 mm (.020 in) oversizes. The cylinder bore must be smooth, straight, and round.

Pistons

Check the piston for scores, cracks, or enlarged ring grooves; replace the piston if any of these conditions are found. Measure the diameter of the top of the piston and the top two ring lands. [Compare to cylinder bore and piston diameters to be sure the diametrical clearance is between 0.325 mm (.0128 in) minimum and 0.500 mm (.0177 in) maximum].

The wrist pin is held in position in the piston with circlips. If the wrist pin is a loose fit, the piston and wrist pin should be replaced. Check the fit of the wrist pin in the connecting rod by rocking the piston. The connecting rod does not utilize a wrist pin bearing. Replace the connecting rod if excessive clearance is found.

Check the ring gap with the piston rings installed in the cylinder bores. The end gap for the two compression rings is 0.08 to 0.28 mm (.003 to .011 in). The end gap for the oil control ring is 0.10 to 0.30 mm (.004 to .012 in)

Crankshaft

Check the crankshaft threads, tapered ends and all machined and ground surfaces for wear, scores, or damage. Standard crankshaft connecting rod journals are between 30.157 ± .007 mm (1.1873 ± .0003 in) in diameter. If the crankshaft journals are excessively scored or worn or out of round, the crankshaft must be replace. Main bearing journals must be maintained so the ball bearings are a snug fit or so that no more than 0.102 mm (.004 in) clearance exists between the precision sleeve main bearing and the main bearing journals on the crankshaft. In crankshafts fitted with oil seal rings, the oil seal ring groove or grooves must not be worn. The ring groove walls must have a good finish and they must be square. Using a wire or similar device, check to be sure the oil passages are open through the crankshaft.

Connecting Rods

The 1W150R connecting rod does not incorporate replaceable crankshaft journal bearing inserts and must be replaced if excessively worn. Clearance between the crankshaft journal and the connecting rod bearing must not be less than 0.025 mm (.0010 in) or more than 0.064 mm (.0025 in).

Repairs

It is generally recommended that genuine service parts and maintenance kits be used whenever the air compressor is disassembled. The Unloader Kit and Major Maintenance Kit and their contents are listed in this manual.

Assembly

Torques

All torques specified in this manual are assembly torques and can be expected to fall off after assembly is accomplished. Do not retorque after initial assembly torques fall.

To convert pound inches of torque to pound feet of torque, divide inch pounds by 12.

pound inches ÷ 12 = pound feet.

To convert pound feet of torque to pound inch of torque, multiply pound feet by 12.

pound feet × 12 = pound inches

Cylunder Head Assembly

Lubricate the two O-ring seals on the lower portion of the unloader piston assembly with all purpose grease. Install the unloader piston spring. Lubricate and put two O-rings in position and install unloader piston. Retain assembly with circlip.

Crankcase & Crankshaft Assembly

1. If the air compressor uses a ball type main bearing, press the ball bearing onto the correct end of the crankshaft. Position the ball bearing and the crankshaft in the crankcase, making sure the drive end of the crankshaft is positioned in the crankcase as marked before disassembly.

NOTE: In the case of air compressors (SAE) with a rear main ball bearing, carefully press the crankshaft and ball bearing into the crankcase using an arbor press.

2. Place the O-ring seal in the groove around the end cover. Install the end cover in the position as marked before disassembly, taking care not to damage the sleeve bearingm if so equipped.

3. Install the four bolts that secure the end cover to the crankcase and tighten to a torque of to 17 to 23 N·m (150 to 204 lb in).

Piston & Connecting Rod Assembly

1. Prelubricate the piston, piston rings, wrist pin, and connecting rod.

2. Install the piston rings in the correct location. The surfaces marked "TOP" must face the piston crown. Stagger the position of the ring gaps.

3. Align the wrist pin bore of the connecting rod with the piston bores and install the wrist pin and circlips to secure the connecting rod to the piston.

4. Using an automotive type ring compressor or similar tool, compress the piston rings and gently install the connecting rod and piston in the cylinder bore. Install the connecting rod cap on the connecting rod in the same position as marked during disassembly.

5. Secure the rod cap to the rod using two bolts. Torque the two bolts to 10 to 16 N·m (88 to 142 lb in) and bend the tabs of the lockwashers until they are firmly against the flats of the hex head of the cap screws.

Sum PPlate

1. Position the sump plate gasket on the crankcase and install the sump plate as marked before disassembly.

2. Install the four bolts that secure the crankcase sump plate. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 8 to 11 N·m (71 to 100 lb in).

Final Air Compressor Assembly

1. Place the cylinder head gasket on the crankcase and position the head on the crankcase as marked during disassembly. A gasket sealer is neither required or recommended.

2. Secure the cylinder head to the crankcase using the four cylinder head bolts. Torque the bolts in an "X" pattern to between 25 to 30 N·m (225 to 265 lb in).

3. Install the crankshaft nut where applicable. When installing drive couplings, gears or pulleys, DO NOT EXCEED 140 N·m (100 lb ft) torque on the crankshaft nut.

Some SAE through drive air compressors require the installation of a spline coupling on the rear of the crankshaft. The bolt securing the coupling should be torqued to 17 to 23 N·m (150 to 204 lb in).

4. Use covers, plugs, or masking tape to protect all ports if air compressor is not to be installed immediately. Protect the ends of the crankshaft against damage by wrapping with masking tape or friction tape. Install sump plate to protect the lower end of the air compressor.

Testing Rebuilt Air Compressor

Compressor Build-Up Time Chart


Compressor Build-Up Time Chart

In order to properly bench test an air compressor under operating conditions, a test rack for correct mounting, cooling, lubricating, and driving the air compressor is necessary. Such tests are not compulsory if the unit has been carefully rebuilt by an experienced person. An air compressor efficiency or build-up test can be run which is not too difficult. The air compressor must be connected to an oil supply line of at least 100 kPa (15 psi) pressure during the test and an oil return line must be installed to keep the crankcase drained.

Connect the air compressor discharge port to a reservoir with a volume of 650 cubic inches, including the volume of the connecting line. With the air compressor operating at 1800 rpm, the time required to raise the reservoir(s) pressure from 0 kPa (0 psi) to 700 kPa (100 psi) should not exceed 30 seconds.

NOTE: During this test (with no inlet check valve or air strainer attached to the air compressor inlet), the air compressor should be checked for gasket leakage and noisy operation, as well as unloader operation and leakage.

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