AIR COMPRESSORS TU-FLO 300, 400, 500, 501, 600, 700 & 1000 C Caterpillar


Tu-Flo 600 Compressor

Usage:

Important! Please Read

When working on or around air brake systems and components, the following precautions should be observed:

1. Always block vehicle wheels. Stop engine when working under a vehicle. Depleting vehicle air system pressure may cause vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from chamber push rods and slack adjusters; they may apply as system pressure drops.

2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line containing air pressure. It may whip as air escapes. Never remove a component or pipe plug unless you are certain all system pressure has been depleted.

3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and always wear safety glasses when working with air pressure. Never look into air jets or direct them at anyone.

4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until you have read and understand recommended procedures. Some components contain powerful springs and injury can result if not properly disassembled. Use only proper tools and observe all precautions pertaining to use of those tools.

General

The function of the air compressor is to build up and maintain the air pressure required to operate air powered devices in air brake or air auxiliary systems.

Description


Figure 1 - Flange Configurations


Figure 2


Figure 3

The Tu-Flo 600 is a two cylinder reciprocating single stage compressor with a rated displacement of 14.5 cfm at 1250 rpm.

The Tu-Flo 600 is constructed with a crankcase, block, and head assembly. The crankcase assemblies, in particular, are essentially the same as corresponding Tu-Flo 500's. The block assembly includes the air inlet cavity, automatic inlet valves and unloader valves. Vertical mounting pads for governor mounting are included at each end of the block. The head assembly includes the discharge valves with discharge ports either on the side or top of the block.

All Tu-Flo 600's are liquid cooled, both head and block, by coolant from the engine cooling system.

Various mounting and drive configurations are used as required by different vehicle and engine designs. Fig. 1.

All Tu-Flo 600 compressors receive oil under pressure from the engine lubricating system for the lubrication of the internal parts. Fig. 2 shows a cross section of a typical Tu-Flo 600 compressor and the oil flow therein.

Oil is forced through the oil passage in the crankshaft to each connecting rod journal. Oil is forced out at the journals and is thrown by centrifugal force against the cylinder walls and crankshaft main bearings, providing lubrication.

The wrist pins and wrist pin bushings are lubricated in two ways depending on the type connecting rod used. Some older compressors, and one current design use forged steel rifle drilled rods, through which oil is forced to the wrist pin bushings. Standard current design consists of a diecast aluminum or forged steel rod with an "oil catch-funnel" at the top of the rod and a short hole connecting to the wrist pin bushing. See Fig. 3.

Name Plate

A name plate is attached to the crankcase of all compressors. It shows the piece number, type and serial number (Fig. 4). A name plate with a black background denotes a new compressor, whereas a name plate with a red background designates that the compressor is a factory reconditioned unit. All compressors are identified by the piece number which is the number to be used when reference is made to a particular compressor. The type and serial number is supplementary information.


Figure 4

Operation

General

All compressors run continuously while the engine is running, but actual compression of air is controlled by a governor which stops or starts the compression of air by loading or unloading the compressor in conjunction with its unloading mechanism. This is done when the air pressure in the system reaches the desired maximum or minimum pressures.

Intake And Compression (Loaded)


Figure 5

During the down stroke of the piston, a slight vacuum created above the piston causes the inlet valve to move off its seat. Atmospheric air is drawn in through the compressor intake, by the open inlet valve, and on top of the piston (Fig. 5). As the piston starts its upward stroke, the air that was drawn in on the down stroke is being compressed. Now, air pressure on top of the inlet valve plus the force of its spring, returns the inlet valve to its seat. The piston continues the upward stroke and compresses the air sufficiently to overcome the discharge valve spring and unseat the discharge valve. The compressed air then flows past the open discharge valve, into the discharge line and on to the reservoirs (Fig. 6).


Figure 6

As the piston reaches the top of its stroke and starts down, the discharge valve spring returns the discharge valve to its seat. This prevents the compressed air in the discharge line from returning to the cylinder bore as the intake and compression cycle is repeated.

Non-Compression (Unloaded)

When the air pressure in the reservoir reaches the high pressure setting of the governor, the governor opens, allowing air to pass from the reservoir through the governor and into the cavity beneath the unloader pistons. This lifts the unloader pistons and plungers. The plungers move up and hold the inlet valves off their seats (Fig. 7).


Figure 7

With the inlet valves held off their seats by the unloader pistons and plungers, air is merely pumped back and forth between the two cylinders. When air is used from the reservoir and the pressure drops to low pressure setting of the governor, the governor closes and in doing so exhausts the air from beneath the unloader pistons. The unloader saddle spring forces the saddle, pistons and plungers down and the inlet valves return to their seats. Compression is then resumed.

Air Cleaner Maintenance

Polyurethane Sponge Strainer (Fig. 8)

Remove and wash all of the parts. The strainer element should be cleaned or replaced. If the element is cleaned, it should be washed in a commercial solvent or a detergent and water solution. The element should be saturated in clean engine oil then squeezed dry before replacing it in the strainer. Be sure to replace the air strainer gasket if the entire air strainer is removed from the compressor intake.


Figure 8

Dry Element - Pleated Paper Air Strainer (Fig. 9)


Figure 9


Figure 10

Remove the spring clips from either side of mounting baffle and remove the cover. Replace the pleated paper filter and remount the cleaned cover making sure the filter is in position. Be sure to replace the air strainer gasket if the entire air strainer is removed from the compressor intake.

NOTE: Some compressors are fitted with compressor intake adapters (Fig. 10) which allow the compressor intake to be connected to the engine air cleaner.

In this case, the compressor receives a supply of clean air from the engine air cleaner. When the engine air filter is changed, the compressor intake adapter should be checked. If it is loose, remove the intake adapter, clean the strainer plate, if applicable, and replace the intake adapter gasket, and reinstall the adapter securely. Check line connections both at the compressor intake adapter and at the engine air cleaner. Inspect the connecting line for ruptures and replace it if necessary.

Air Leakage Tests

Leakage past the discharge valves can be detected by removing the discharge line, applying shop air back through the discharge port and listening for escaping air. Also, the discharge valves and the unloader pistons can be checked for leakage by building up the air system until the governor cuts out, then stopping the engine. With the engine stopped, carefully listen for escaping air at the intake. To pin-point leakage if noted, squirt oil around the unloader pistons. If there is no noticeable leakage at the unloader pistons, the discharge valves may be leaking.

If the compressor does not function as described above, or leakage is excessive, it is recommended that it be returned to the nearest Bendix HVSG authorized distributor for a factory rebuilt compressor under the repair exchange plan. If this is not possible, the compressor can be repaired with genuine Bendix HVSG parts in which case the following information should prove helpful.

Removing And Installing

Removing

These instructions are general and in some cases additional precautions must be taken.

Drain air brake system.

Drain engine cooling system, compressor cylinder head and block.

Disconnect all air lines, water and oil lines to and from compressor.

Remove compressor mounting bolts and compressor from engine.

Use a gear-puller to remove the gear or pulley from compressor crankshaft.

Installation

Clean oil supply line. Before connecting this line to the compressor run the engine briefly to be sure oil is flowing freely through the supply line.

Clean the oil return line or return passages through the brackets; these passages must be unrestricted so oil can return to the engine.

Prelubricate compressor cylinder walls, piston rings, and bearing with clean engine oil before assembling compressor.

Always use a new mounting gasket and be sure oil hole in gasket and compressor is properly aligned with oil supply line.

Inspect pulley or gear and associated parts for wear or damage. They must be a neat fit on compressor crankshaft. Replace pulley or gear if worn or damaged.

Install pulley or gear on compressor crankshaft making sure it properly contacts the shaft and does not ride the key. Tighten crankshaft nut to 65-70 ft. lbs. and install cotter pin.

Be sure the air cleaner is clean and properly installed. If the compressor intake is connected to either the engine air cleaner or supercharger, these connections must be tight with no leakage.

Clean or replace any damaged or dirty air or water lines which may be corroded, before connecting them to the compressor. Use a new discharge fitting gasket.

Align compressor drive and adjust proper belt tension.

Tighten mounting bolts securely and evenly.

After installation run compressor and check for air, oil, or water leaks at compressor connections. Also, check for noisy operation.

Disassembly

General

Clean compressor exterior of road dirt and grease using a good cleaning solvent. Before compressor is completely disassembled the following items should be marked to show their relationship when the compressor is assembled:

The cylinder block in relation to crankcase,

End covers' relation to crankcase,

Position of crankshaft in relation to crankcase,

The cylinder head's relation to the block.

A convenient method to indicate the above relationships is to use a metal scribe to mark the parts with numbers or lines. Do not use a marking method that can be wiped off or obliterated during rebuilding, such as chalk. Remove all compressor attachments such as governors, air strainers or inlet fittings, discharge fittings and pipe plugs.

Cylinder Head


Figure 11

Remove the cylinder head cap screws and tap the head with a soft mallet to break the gasket seal. Remove the inlet valve springs from the head and inlet valves from their guides in the block. Remove inlet valve guides from around the inlet valve seats on the block taking care not to damage seats. Scrape off any gasket material from the cylinder head and block. Unscrew the discharge cap nuts from the head and remove the discharge valves and springs. Inspect the discharge valve seats for nicks, cracks, and excessive wear and remove and replace if necessary.

The discharge valve cap nuts should be inspected for wear and replaced if excessive peening has occurred. To determine if excessive peening has occurred, measure the discharge valve travel. Discharge valve travel must not exceed .046 inches (1.168 mm).

Crankcase Base Plate Or Adapter

Remove the cap screws securing the base plate or base adapter. Tap with soft mallet to break the gasket seal. Scrape off any gasket material from crankcase and plate or adapter.

Connection Rod Assemblies

NOTE: Before removing the connecting rods, mark each connecting rod and its cap. Each connecting rod is matched to its own cap for proper bearing fit, and these parts must not be interchanged.

Straighten the prongs of the connecting rod bolt lock strap and remove the bolts and bearing caps. Push the piston with the connecting rods attached out the top of the cylinder block. Replace the bearing caps on their respective connecting rods. Remove the piston rings from the pistons. If the pistons are to be removed from the connecting rods, remove the wrist pin lock wires and press the wrist pins from the pistons and connecting rods. If the wrist pins have teflon plugs, remove plugs, then press out the wrist pins.

If the pistons are removed from the rod, inspect the bronze wrist pin bushing. Press out and replace the bushing if it is excessively worn. (See inspection of parts.) Discard the piston rings and the connecting rod journal bearings. Discard the wrist pin bushings if they were removed (Fig. 12).


Figure 12

Crankcase (Fig. 13)


Figure 13

Remove end cover with oil seal, remove end cover gasket. Replace oil seal after cleaning end cover.

Remove cap screws that hold opposite end cover to crankcase; remove end cover and its gasket. Some compressors have crankcases that have a shoulder for positioning the crankshaft. In these cases, the crankshaft must be removed through one particular end.

Press the crankshaft and ball bearings from the crankcase then press ball bearings from crankshaft. Many compressors will have sleeve type bearings in the crankcase or in the end cover. If the clearance between crankshaft journal and bearing exceeds .0065 in. (.165 mm) the sleeve bearing should be replaced with appropriate undersize.

Block (Fig. 14)


Figure 14

If compressor is fitted with an air strainer, inlet elbow or governor, remove same.

Remove cap screws securing cylinder block to crankcase; separate crankcase and cylinder block and scrape off gasket.

Remove unloader spring, spring saddle and spring seat from cylinder block (Fig. 14).

Remove unloader guides and plungers and with the use of shop air blow unloader pistons out of cylinder block unloader piston bores.

Remove inlet valve guides; inlet valve seats can be removed, but only if they are worn or damaged and are being replaced. Unloader bore bushings should be inspected but not removed unless they are damaged.

Cleaning And Inspection Of Parts

Cleaning

All parts should be cleaned thoroughly in mineral spirits before inspection.

Cylinder Head Assembly

Remove all carbon deposits from discharge cavities and all rust and scale from cooling cavities of cylinder head body. Scrape all foreign matter from body surfaces and use air pressure to blow dirt particles from all cavities.

Discharge valves can be dressed by lapping them on a piece of fine crocus cloth on a flat surface, provided they are not excessively worn.

Cylinder Block

Clean carbon and dirt from inlet and unloader passages. Use air pressure to blow carbon and dirt deposits from unloader passages.

Inlet valves, as in the case of discharge valves, not worn excessively can be cleaned by lapping them on a piece of fine crocus cloth on a flat surface.

Oil Passage

Clean thoroughly all oil passages through crankshaft, connecting rods, crankcase, end covers and base plate. If necessary, inspect passages with a wire and blow foreign matter out with air pressure.

Inspection Of Parts

Cylinder Head Body

Inspect cylinder head body for cracks or damage.

Water-Cooled Type

Use air pressure to test water jackets of cylinder head and block for leakage. Replace unit if leakage is found.

Discharge Valves And Seats

If discharge valves are worn and grooved where they contact the seats, they should be replaced. If the discharge valve seats are worn excessively so that there is no longer enough metal left to reclaim them by lapping, the seats should be replaced.

Discharge Valve Spring And Cap Nuts

Replace all used discharge valve springs and cap nuts if cap nuts cannot be reclaimed.

Crankcase And End Covers

Check for cracks or broken lugs in crankcase and end covers. Also, check oil passages to make sure they are open and clean.

If an oil seal ring is used in the end cover, check fit of ring in ring groove. There should be .008 in. (.203 mm) to .015 in. (.381 mm) clearance at the gap when placed in the end bore of the crankshaft. If the oil ring is worn thin or is damaged, it should be replaced. Inspect oil ring groove in end cover; if groove is worn excessively, replace end cover or machine groove for next oversize oil seal ring. If the crankshaft main bearings are installed in the end cover, check for excessive wear and flat spots; replace if necessary.

Cylinder Block

Check for cracks or broken lugs on cylinder block. Also check unloader bore bushings to be sure they are not worn, rusted or damaged. If these bushings are to be replaced, they can be removed by running a 1/8 in. pipe thread tap inside the bushing, then inserting a 1/8 in. pipe threaded rod and pulling the bushing straight up and out. Do not use an easy-out for removing these bushings.

Inlet Valves And Seats

If inlet valves are grooved or worn where they contact the seat, they should be replaced. If the inlet valve seats are worn or damaged so they cannot be reclaimed by facing, they should be replaced.

Cylinder Bores

Cylinder bores which are scored or out of round by more than .002 in. (.051 mm) or tapered more than .003 in. (.076 mm) should be rebored or honed oversize. Oversize pistons are available in .010 in., .020 in., and .030 in. oversizes (Fig. 15).

Cylinder bores must be smooth, straight, and round.

Clearance between cast iron pistons and cylinder bores should be between .002 in. (.051 mm) minimum and .004 in. (.102 mm) maximum (Fig. 15).


Figure 15

Pistons

Any of three different piston designs may be found in Tu-Flo 600 compressors as follows: three ring cast iron, three ring aluminum or five ring cast iron. If either of the three ring designs are found, it is recommended that the unit be updated to the current five ring design. Piece numbers of five ring piston, wrist pin maintenance kits and piston ring sets are shown in Fig. 16.


Figure 16

If the compressor has five ring pistons which are to be re-used, they should be checked for scores, cracks or enlarged ring grooves; replace pistons if any of these conditions are found. Measure each piston with a micrometer in relation to the cylinder bore diameter to be sure the clearance is between .002 in. (.051 mm) minimum and .004 in. (.102 mm) maximum.

Check fit of wrist pins in pistons. Wrist pin clearance should be from .0000 in. to .0006 in (.015 mm). Check fit of wrist pin in connecting rod bushing. This clearance should not exceed .0007 in. (.018 mm). Replace wrist pin bushings if excessive clearance is found. Wrist pin bushings should be reamed after being pressed into connecting rods. Replace used wrist pin lock wires. Compressors manufactured after December, 1977, will have Teflon plugs in each end of the wrist pins instead of the lockwire. The Teflon plugs (piece number 292392) may be used instead of the lockwires on all compressors (see Fig. 3).

Piston Rings

Check fit of piston rings in piston ring grooves. Check ring gap with rings installed in cylinder bores. Refer to Fig. 17 for correct gap and groove clearance.


Figure 17

All rings must be located in their proper ring grooves as shown. The rings can be identified by the width and should be installed with the bevel or the pip mark (if any) toward the top of the piston as shown.

Crankshaft

Check crankshaft screw threads, keyways, tapered ends and all machined and ground surfaces for wear, scores, or damage. Crankshaft journals which are out of round more than .001 in. (.025 mm) must be reground. Bearing inserts are available in .010 in. (.254 mm), .020 in. (.508 mm), and .030 in. (.762 mm) undersizes for reground crankshafts. Main bearing journals must be maintained so bearings are snug fit. The oil seal ring groove or grooves in crankshafts fitted with oil seal rings must not be worn. The ring groove walls must have a good finish and they must be square. Check to be sure the oil passages are open and clean through the crankshaft.

Connecting Rod Bearings

Check connecting rod bearings on crankshaft journals for proper fit. Used bearing inserts should be replaced. Connecting rod caps are not interchangeable. The locking slots of the connecting rod and cap should be positioned adjacent to each other.

Clearance between the connecting rod journal and the connecting rod bearing must not be less than .0003 in. (.008 mm) or more than .0021 in. (.053 mm) after rebuilding.

Main Bearings

Check for wear or flat spots; if found, bearings should be replaced. If type with sleeve bearing, this bearing should be checked for scores and wear and replaced if necessary.

Unloader Mechanism

Used unloader mechanism should be replaced by unloader kits (piece number 279615).

The new unloader pistons should be a loose sliding fit in the unloader piston bores of the cylinder block.

Repairs

Discharge Valves And Seats

If discharge valve seats merely show signs of slight wear, they can be dressed by using a lapping stone, grinding compound and grinding tool. Install new valve springs and re-dressed or new discharge valves.

To test for leakage past the discharge valves, apply about 100 pounds of air pressure through the cylinder head discharge port and apply soap suds at the discharge valves and seats. Leakage which will permit the formation of bubbles is permissable.

If excessive leakage is found, leave the air pressure applied, and with the use of a fibre or hardwood dowel and hammer, tap the discharge valves off their seats several times. This will help the valves to seat and should reduce any leakage.

With the air pressure still applied at the discharge port of the cylinder head, check for leakage at the discharge valve cap nuts. No leakage is permissible.

Inlet Valves And Seats

If inlet valve seats show sign of slight nicks or scratches, they can be redressed with a fine piece of emery cloth or by lapping with a lapping stone, grinding compound and grinding tool. If the seats are excessively damaged to the extent that they cannot be reclaimed, they should be replaced. The dimension from the top of the cylinder block to the inlet valve seat should not exceed .113 in. (2.870 mm) not be less than .101 in. (2.565 mm).

Slightly worn or scratched inlet valves can be reclaimed by lapping them on a piece of fine crocus cloth on a flat surface, but it is suggested that new inlet valves be installed.

Assembly

Installing Cylinder Block

Position cylinder block gasket and block on crankcase according to markings made prior to disassembly. Using cap screws with lockwashers, secure cylinder block to crankcase at 220 to 250 inch pounds.

Installing Crankshaft

If the crankshaft is fitted with oil seal rings, install rings. Position ball bearings and crankshaft in crankcase making sure the drive end of the crankshaft is positioned as marked before disassembly.

If one end of the crankcase is counterbored for holding a bearing, be sure the crankshaft is installed through the correct end of the crankcase.

Carefully press crankshaft and bearings into crankcase using arbor press.

Position a rear end cover gasket, when used, over the rear end of the crankcase, making sure the oil hole in the gasket lines up with the oil hole in the crankcase. Position the end cover oil seal ring, if used, in the groove in the end cover boss. The end cover should be positioned correctly in relation to the oil holes in the gasket and crankcase. As the end cover is positioned, the oil seal ring must be compressed as it is positioned in the crankshaft. Secure end cover to crankcase with cap screws and lock washers.

If the opposite end cover requires an oil seal which was removed on disassembly, a new seal should be pressed into end cover. Position new end cover gasket and carefully install end cover over crankshaft and to crankcase avoiding damage to the seal. Secure end cover with cap screw and lock washers (220-250 inch pounds).

Installing Pistons And Connecting Rods

If new wrist pin bushings are to be used, they should be pressed into the connecting rods so that the oil hole in the bushing lines up with the one in the rod. The new bushings should then be reamed or honed to provide between .0002 in. (.005 mm) and .0007 in. (.018 mm) clearance on the wrist pin. Position connecting rod in piston and press in wrist pin so that lockwire hole in the pin aligns with that of the piston. Install new lockwire through piston and wrist pin and lock same by snapping short end into lockwire hole at the bottom of the piston (Fig. 3). Teflon plugs in wrist pin ends may be used instead of the lockwires (Fig. 3).

Install piston rings in correct location with ring pip marks up (Fig. 17). Stagger the position of the ring gaps.

Prelubricate piston, piston rings, wrist pin, and connecting rod bearings with clean engine oil before installing them in the compressor.

Remove connecting bolts and bearing cap from one connecting rod. Turn crankshaft so one of its connecting rod journals is in the downward, center position. Compress the rings in their respective grooves with a ring compression tool. Insert the connecting rod with piston through the top of the cylinder whose journal is down. Position and attach the bearing cap to the connecting rod making sure the bolt lock washers are properly positioned on the cap. Tighten connecting rod bolts (105-120 inch pounds) and bend the two new lock washer prongs up against the hex head of the bolt. Install the other connecting rod and piston in the same manner.

Unloading Mechanism (Fig. 14)

The unloader pistons and their bores must be lubricated with special lubricant piece number 239379 (dimethyl polysiloxane) prior to installation. If new unloader kits are being installed, the pistons in the kit are already lubricated.

Install the unloader pistons in their bores with caution against cutting the O-Rings or distoring the back-up rings.

Position unloader plungers in their guides and slip them in and over the tops of the pistons.

Install the unloader spring seat in the cylinder block; a small hole is drilled in the block for this purpose. Position the saddle between unloader piston guides so its forks are centered on the guides. Install the unloader spring making sure it seats over the spring seats both in the block and on the saddle.

Install inlet valve seats if they have been previously removed. Position and install inlet valve guides, then drop inlet valves in their guides. There should be a loose sliding fit between guides and valves.

Cylinder Head Assembly

If previously removed, the discharge valve seats should be installed. Drop discharge valves into their seats. Install discharge valve spring and cap nuts.

Place the inlet valve springs in the cylinder head. Use a small quantity of grease to hold them in place, just enough grease to keep the springs from falling out. Place cylinder head gasket on cylinder block. Carefully align cylinder head assembly on block and install cap screws. Torque to 175-225 inch pounds.

Air Strainer


Figure 18

If the compressor has its own air strainer, reassemble with new or cleaned element. Assemble to block with a new strainer gasket.

Governor

If compressor is type with pad mounted governor, install a properly functioning governor using a new governor gasket.

Inspection Of Rebuilt Unit

Check to be sure that covers, plugs or masking tape are used to protect all ports if compressor is not to be installed immediately.

Fit the end of all crankshafts with keys, nuts and cotter pins as required and then protect the ends against damage by wrapping with masking or friction tape.

The open bottom of engine lubricated compressors should be protected against the entrance of dirt during handling or storage, by installing a temporary cover over base.

Testing Rebuilt Compressor

In order to properly test a compressor under operating conditions, a test rack for correct mounting, cooling, lubricating and driving the compressor is necessary. Such tests are not compulsory if the unit has been carefully rebuilt by an experienced person.

A compressor efficiency or build-up test can be run which is not too difficult. An engine lubricated compressor must be connected to an oil supply line of at least 15 pounds pressure during the test and an oil return line must be installed to keep the crankcase drained. The compressor (when tested) should be tested without a strainer.

To the discharge port of the compressor connect a reservoir or reservoirs whose volume plus the volume of the connecting line equals 1300 cubic inches. Run the compressor between 1700 and 1750 RPM. Elapsed time that the compressor takes to build up from 0 to 100 psi should be 36 seconds maximum. During the above test, the compressor should be checked for oil leakage and noisy operation.

Important! Please Read

When working on or around air brake systems and components, the following precautions should be observed:

1. Always block vehicle wheels. Stop engine when working under a vehicle. Depleting vehicle air system pressure may cause vehicle to roll. Keep hands away from chamber push rods and slack adjusters; they may apply as system pressure drops.

2. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line containing air pressure. It may whip as air escapes. Never remove a component or pipe plug unless you are certain all system pressure has been depleted.

3. Never exceed recommended air pressure and always wear safety glasses when working with air pressure. Never look into air jets or direct them at anyone.

4. Never attempt to disassemble a component until you have read and understand recommended procedures. Some components contain powerful springs and injury can result if not properly disassembled. Use only proper tools and observe all precautions pertaining to use of those tools.

Compressor Troubleshooting Chart

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