Usage:
This group combines coverage of the removal and installation of Piston, Rings, Connecting Rod, Cylinder Liners, Main Bearings and Crankshaft. It is divided into three sections:
First: tool usage in the operation of crankshaft removal, both the engine tilting method and engine lifting method. Keep in mind that caution should be used in either method used, because of the great weight being handled. Depending on components remaining on the engine block, approximate minimum weights are:
Second: Cylinder Liners, Piston, Rings and Connecting Rod Disassembly and Assembly.
Third: Crankshaft and Main Bearings Disassembly and Assembly.
Engine Tilting Method Of Crankshaft Removal
Tools required for engine tilting method of removing crankshaft:
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Never use the engine tilting group unless the engine base is securely fastened to its foundation. |
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The procedure described is for removing the crankshaft where there is a minimum of overhead and side clearance.
1. Always position 5B1181 Turnbuckles (5) so the left-handed threads are toward the top of the engine.
2. Mount FT731 left and FT735 right Support Beams (10) and FT734 Supports (11) on the respective sides of the engine. D398 and D379 Engines use FT113A and FT113 Support Beams.
3. Install 8F4239 Blocks (2) and 8F4226 Yokes (9) on Support Beams (10) and thread 8F4230 Studs (8) [14.5 in. (368,3 mm) long] into 8F4226 Yokes (9). Use jam nuts on studs as shown.
NOTE: If the engine is installed with vibration isolation dampers, place wooden blocks on both sides of each damper. This will prevent excessive load on the damper when the engine weight is shifted in the tilting operation.
4. Thread 5B1181 Turnbuckles (5) onto studs (8).
5. Thread 8F4231 Studs (4) [9 in. (228,6 mm) long] into the turnbuckles.
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The turnbuckles and studs must carry the load evenly and must be operated evenly or they will bind. If any one turnbuckle is excessively hard to turn, correct the binding before proceeding. Forcing may cause damage to threads. |
TOOL ARRANGEMENT TO TILT BLOCK FROM BASE (D399 Engine illustrated)
1. FT736 Bracket. 2. 8F4239 Block. 3. 8F4226 Yokes. 4. 8F4231 Stud. 5. 5B1181 Turnbuckle. 6. 8F4228 Hinge yoke. 7. 8F4225 Bolts. 8. 8F4230 Stud. 9. 8F4226 Yoke. 10. FT731 and FT735 Support beams (left and right). 11. FT734 Support beam. 12. Bolts. 13. Steel plate.
6. Thread the top of 8F4231 Studs into 8F4226 Yokes (3) and attach 8F4239 Yoke, block (2) and FT736 Bracket (1) to the cylinder head.
7. Install 8F4225 Bolts (7), (six for D399 and D398 Engines and four for D379 Engines) in place of the bolts used to secure the block to the engine base.
Be sure to place blocking with a steel plate (13) under the 1A8628 Bolts (12) in all support brackets (11).
8. Raise the engine four inches (101,6 mm) with the turnbuckles so 8F4228 Hinge Yoke (6) and 8F4233 Hinge Block can be installed.
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The engine must be kept level while it is being raised. If an excessive amount of effort is required to turn one turnbuckle, or hinge block and hinge yoke mounting holes do not line up, check the opening around the engine base with a scale. Adjust the distance at each corner of engine block to base to be equal. |
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9. Install 8F4228 Hinge Yokes and 8F4233 Hinge Blocks between the block and the oil pan base. Use L1178 Bolts between yoke and oil pan base and bolts removed to fasten hinge blocks to the block.
10. Remove the 8F4225 Guide Bolts that were installed in Step 7.
11. Begin tilting the engine by turning the turnbuckles on both sides of the engine. When the ends of the studs are even with the inside base of the turnbuckles, replace the 8F4230 Studs with FT111-A studs 20.5 in. (520,7 mm) long. Replace studs one at a time.
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Extending the studs ends farther than flush with the inside base of turnbuckles might cause damage to the threads on the studs and in the turnbuckles and result in accidentally dropping the engine. |
12. Continue to tilt the engine until the studs are again extended the permissible distance. Remove 8F4231 Studs and replace with FT733-5 Studs 11.5 in. (292,1 mm) long. Remove the FT111-A Studs and replace with FT733-10 Studs (18) 23.5 in. (596,9 mm) long. All of these replacements are on the side being opened. Before tilting the engine further, remove 8F4230 Studs from the "hinged" side of the engine and replace them with FT111 Studs 10 in. (254 mm) long.
CRANKSHAFT REMOVED
14. FT736 Support bracket. 15. FT733-9 Stud. 16. Hoist. 17. Guide pin. 18. FT733-10 Stud. 19. Cover.
13. Continue to tilt engine until studs are again exteded the permissible distance. Remove FT733-5 Studs and replace with FT733-7 Stud 18.5 in. (469,9 mm) long.
14. Continue to tilt the engine until the studs are extended the permissible distance. Remove the FT733-7 Studs and replace with FT733-9 Studs (15) 21.5 in. (546,1 mm) long. Move to the "hinged" side of the engine and remove the FT111 Studs and replace the FT733-2 Studs (21) 8 in. (203,2 mm) long. Remove the 8F4231 Studs and replace with FT733-1 Studs (20) 6 in. (152,4 mm) long.
15. Continue to tilt the engine until there is approximately 17 in. (431,8 mm) clearance. The crankshaft can now be removed.
NOTE: After assembly, check crankshaft deflection, see topic CRANKSHAFT DEFLECTION.
HINGED SIDE OF ENGINE MAXIMUM TILT
20. FT733-1 Stud. 21. FT733-2 Stud.
Engine Lifting Method Of Crankshaft Removal
Tools required for engine lifting method of crankshaft removal:
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Use extreme care in using this engine lifting method to prevent the cylinder block from falling. |
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This method of removing the crankshaft can be used where the tilting method cannot be used because of lack of over head and side clearances.
1. Remove connecting rod and pistons as required.
2. Place I beams (2) through inspection openings. On D379 Engines the beams should be placed through openings closest to the front and rear.
NOTE: Install 8F4225 Bolts, (six for D399 and D398 Engines and four for D379 Engines) in place of the bolts used to secure the block to the engine base to guide the block to raise straight.
TOOL ARRANGEMENT TO LIFT BLOCK FROM BASE (D399 Engine illustrated)
1. 2B9886 Hydraulic jacks (four). 2. I Beams (two) 8 in. (203,2 mm)-required length. 3. Guide pins (two). 4. Hoist.
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Carefully block under the cylinder block to prevent it from falling. |
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3. Place blocking and jacks (1) under the beams.
4. Raise the block to remove the oil pan base.
5. The crankshaft can be removed with guide pins (3) installed in the crankshaft flanges and hoists (4) at the front and rear of the engine.
NOTE: After assembly, check crankshaft deflection, see topic, CRANKSHAFT DEFLECTION.
Cylinder Liners, Pistons, Rings And Connecting Rods Disassembly And Assembly
- 7F1857 Liner Puller Assembly.1P2398 Adapter Plate.7F9540 Hydraulic Puller.9S5800 or 6F25 Pump Group.7M4463 Tool Group.7M4458 Tool Bit.8B7548 Push Puller (crossbar).3H465 Plates (three).1P5510 Liner Projection Tool Group.2H6782 Rod Boring Machine.9M3710 Anti-Seize Compound.5B1161 Wire.8S3140 Counter Boring Tool.6H4140 Piston Ring Compressor.5H9621 Expander.
CYLINDER LINERS, PISTONS, RINGS AND CONNECTING RODS
1. Cylinder liner. 2. Seals. 3. Piston rings. 4. Piston. 5. Connecting rod and piston pin bearing. 6. Connecting rod bolts.
Cylinder head studs are tightened to torque of 100 ± 10 lb. ft. (13,8 ± 1,3 mkg).
Use a 7F1857 Liner Puller Assembly and 1P2398 Adapter Plate to remove cylinder liner (1). Clean the counterbore in cylinder block. Use 7M4463 Tool Group, and 7M4458 Tool Bit to remove ring ridge from cylinder liner.
Make certain the cylinder liner flange is clean.
Install seals (2) on liner (1) after coating seals and mating bore with liquid soap. Position liner in bore chamfer. Place a 1P2398 Adapter Plate on top of liner. Use a block of hardwood over adapter and drive liner into place. Use three 3H465 Plates and the crossbar from the 8B7548 Push Puller, to clamp the liner down with cylinder head stud nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts to 50 lb. ft. (6,9 mkg). Tighten the nuts evenly in four steps; 5 lb. ft. (0,7 mkg), 15 lb. ft. (2,1 mkg), 24 lb. ft. (3,5 mkg), and finally to 50 lb. ft. (6,9 mkg). Distance from bottom edge of crossbar, to cylinder block must be the same on both sides of cylinder liner. Use a 1P5510 Liner Projection Tool Group, as illustrated, to measure liner projection. Special instruction GMG00623 is included with the tool. Liner projection must be .004 to .008 in. (0,102 to 0,203 mm). Shims are available for adjustment of the liner projection. Remachining of block counterbores can be done with the 8S3140 Counterboring Tool Arrangement. Counterbore maximum depth is .545 in. (13,84 mm).
MEASURING LINER PROJECTION
7. 3H465 Plate. 8. Dial indicator. 9. 1P2402 Block. 10. Crossbar. 11. 1P2398 Adapter Plate.
Use a 5H9621 Expander to remove and install rings (3) on piston.
After pressing a new piston pin bearing (5) into place, it should be machined accurately to the measurements listed in the SPECIFICATIONS. A 2H6782 Rod Boring Machine is available for this operation. Use 5B1161 Wire to measure connecting rod bearing clearance which is .0043-.0072 in. (0,109-0,183 mm). Maximum permissible clearance is .012 in. (0,305 mm).
Use a 6H4140 Piston Ring Compressor to install pistons (4) in cylinder liners. Install piston in cylinder block so that "V" marks on top of piston and block are aligned. Part number on connecting rods (5) for the right bank should face the front. Left bank connecting rods (5) should have the part number facing the rear.
Tighten connecting rod bolts (6) in the following step sequence:
a. Apply 9M3710 Anti-Seize Compound to threads.
b. Tighten bolts to 40 ± 4 lb. ft. (5,5 ± 0,6 mkg).
c. Mark end of bolt and rod.
d. Tighten bolts an additional 120° from mark.
NOTE: Locks and cotter pins are not required with this method of tightening the bolts, even though the bolt head may be drilled.
Crankshaft And Main Bearings Disassembly And Assembly
- FT127 Puller Assembly.FT132 Driver.FT133 Sleeve.FT144 Handle.8B7548 Puller.7F9540 Hydraulic Puller.8B7556 Adapters (two).FT105 Push Plate.8M9379 Main Bearing Wrench.5B1161 Wire.FT136 Main Bearing removal and installation Tool.
CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS
1. Crankshaft. 2. Crankshaft plugs. 3. Locks for counterweight retaining bolts. 4. Thrust plates. 5. Main bearing. 6. Main bearing cap. 7. Main bearing nuts. 8. Crankshaft rear seal thrower. 9. Crankshaft front seal thrower.
Crankshaft (1) should have end clearance of .008-.021 in. (0,203-0,533 mm) with a maximum permissible clearance of .035 in. (0,889 mm). Install D399 and D398 Engine crankshaft with direction arrow on flange face indicating correct rotation of engine. The D379 Engine crankshaft should be installed with the "FRT" mark on flange face to the front of the engine.
Use a FT127 Puller Assembly to remove crankshaft plugs (2) for purpose of cleaning oil passages. To install crankshaft plugs and retaining rings use FT132 Driver, FT133 Sleeve, and FT144 Handle.
REMOVING CRANKSHAFT PLUG
INSTALLING RETAINING RING (Typical Illustration)
10. FT144 Handle. 11. FT132 Driver. 12. FT133 Sleeve.
NOTE: To time crankshaft gears see the topics, TIMING GEARS and FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE.
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Avoid turning the crankshaft, timing gears and fuel injection pump drive in the opposite rotation from normal rotation. Damage can be caused to the earlier safety shut off control if turned in the reverse direction. |
Bend counterweight retaining bolt locks (3) on connecting rod journal side of counterweight.
Two steel backed aluminum thrust plates (4) are installed in front and rear grooves in either rear or front main bearing cap.
Use 5B1161. Wire to measure clearance of main bearing (5). Clearance should be .005-.008 in. (0,127-0,203 mm). Maximum permissible clearance is .015 in. (0,38 mm). Use a commercially available or FT136 Bearing Removal Tool to roll out or install the upper halves of the main bearings. The main bearing half with oil hole is the upper half. Be sure to install correctly.
MAIN BEARING CAP REMOVAL OR INSTALLATION THROUGH INSPECTION OPENING
13. Socket. 14. Ratchet. 15. 8M9379 Main Bearing Wrench.
NOTE: One main bearing journal has no drilled hole in the crankshaft so roll out method cannot be used at this journal. Later engines have undrilled center main bearing journals. On earlier 8 cylinder engines the undrilled journal is always at the rear. Earlier 12 and 16 cylinder engines, SAE Standard Rotation, have the undrilled journal at the rear, and at the front of SAE Opposite Rotation. If replacement is necessary, place a thin strip of fiber, hardwood or plastic against that portion of the upper bearing half, opposite the end tab, and tap gently until the tab is free of the mating recess in the cylinder block. The bearing half can then be rotated out of the cylinder block.
Main bearings (5) and caps (6) are numbered as to their location in the cylinder block. Install main bearings and caps so number on cap corresponds with number on saddle of cylinder block. Both numbers must be on same side of block. Thrust plate positioning dowels, in front and rear caps, should project only .160 in. (4,064 mm) from groove face.
Lubricate the threads of the studs, then tighten main bearing nuts (7) with 8M9379 Main Bearing Wrench in following step sequence:
a. Tighten nuts to 200 ± 10 lb. ft. (27,7 ± 1,4 mkg).
b. Mark the nuts and studs.
c. Tighten the nuts an additional 120° from mark.
NOTE: On earlier engines, tighten additionally to align nut slot for cotter.
Install crankshaft seal throwers, front (9) and rear (8), after heating in oil. They should be installed flush against the crankshaft shoulders with use of 8B7548 Puller (16), 7F9540 Hydraulic Puller (17), two 8B7556 Adapters (18) and an FT105 Push Plate (19). Runout on ring groove face and bottom, must not exceed .006 in. (0,152 mm) total indicator movement when installed on crankshaft.
CRANKSHAFT SEAL THROWER INSTALLATION
16. 8B7548 Puller. 17. 7F9540 Hydraulic puller. 18. 8B7556 Adapter. 19. FT105 Push plate.
NOTE: The word OUT stamped on ring seals should face away from engine. Lubricate ring seal and groove prior to seal installation. Seal must turn freely in the groove and a .002 in. (0,05 mm) thickness gauge pass completely around ring in groove when ring is at root of groove after assembly. Ring seal gap should be in the top position with engine block in operating position.
Crankshaft Deflection - (12 and 16 Cylinder Engines)
The crankshaft deflection should be checked after installation of oil pan base and/or after the final installation of the engine. Check again 24 hours after the vessel is launched. The check must be made to assure proper bearing alignment and the engine block has not distorted due to improper shimming.
MEASURING CRANKSHAFT DEFLECTION
1. Dial gauge. 2. Mounting face.
Check with the engine cold and then check again at operating temperature to assure the engine is free to expand and contract without distortion. Take measurements between crank throw cheeks at one of the center crank throws within .25 in. (0,64 mm) of counterweight mounting face (2). Use a tool (1) similar to Starrett Crankshaft Distortion Dial Gauge No. 696 with No. 696B Balancer Attachment to make the check. Deflection should not exceed .001 in. (0,025 mm) when crank is rotated at least 180° and back to starting position.